Luretta, Colli Piacentini DOC (Emilia Romagna, Italy) Malvasia Aromatica di Candia “Boccadirosa” 2020

($30, USA Wine Imports):  In addition to the innumerable DOCs, the Italians use a mind-boggling number of grapes for their wines, which is another reason the wines from that country are so exciting to explore.  Malvasia Aromatica di Candia had me running to Jancis Robinson’s Wine Grapes, which informed me that although Candia is an old name for Crete, there is no genetic evidence that is originated on that Greek Island.  No matter.  This is an alluring white wine, very aromatic, with the typical almost flamboyant Muscat tropical fruit aromas that carry through on the palate.  Though its aroma suggests sweetness, and yes there is a hint of that in this bold white, it’s not really a sweet wine.  There’s a melon-like richness balance by great energy and vivacity.  This is a wine to sip by itself or bring to the table when spicy Asian or Latin cuisine is on the plate.  Or when you succumb to a cheese course.
90 Michael Apstein May 17, 2022