Château d’Épiré, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2018

($26, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants):  Chenin Blanc makes a wide range of wine, from this bone-dry version to fruity ones and lusciously sweet examples.  Although regulations for Savennières, a small 350-acre appellation on the north side of the Loire River just southwest of Angers, allow for sweet wines, in reality the vast majority of wines from the appellation are dry.  Indeed, the claim to fame for Savennières wines is their bone dry and mineraly expression of Chenin Blanc, which improve with bottle age.  This one from Château d’Épiré, a top producer, displays good concentration and depth.  There is a floral element, and then, wham — lots of minerality and even a touch of welcomed bitterness in the finish.  Cutting and persistent, it opens in the glass and lingers seemingly forever.  This is serious stuff, so don’t rush it.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 8, 2022