Masciarelli, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC (Italy) Trebbiano “Marina Cvetic” Riserva 2018

($58, Vintus):  Similar to its red counterpart, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo can be grown all over the province and varies in quality from insipid to inspiring.  As you would expect from a top producer, Masciarelli’s fits the latter category.  Why the vast difference?  Stefano di Nisio, cofounder of the Atomos Wine Company in Abruzzo, told me recently that the quality of wine can be explained, at least in part, by yield, which for Trebbiano can vary by a factor of 10.  Though I don’t know the precise yield for Masciarelli’s 2018, it’s likely low given the wine’s extraordinary depth and weight.  Who knew Trebbiano could make such an impressive serious wine?  Cutting, uplifting acidity keeps it fresh and balances its concentration.  There’s a subtle and pleasant bitterness in the finish that makes it a delight to drink with grilled swordfish.
93 Michael Apstein Mar 23, 2021