Lanson, Champagne (France) Brut “Black Label” NV

 ($45):  In my opinion, Lanson does not receive the credit it’s due.  Their non-vintage Brut combines a welcome steeliness and vibrancy with richness.  Geek alert — the vibrancy is, in part, due to their blocking the malolactic fermentation, action of bacteria that normally changes firm green apple-like (malic) acidity to softer (creamy) lactic acidity.  Few Champagne houses employ this winemaking technique because most probably feel that there is plenty of acidity in Champagne without it.  But Lanson pulls it off — at least for those of us who embrace that style of Champagne.  Its cutting style serves it well as a stand-along celebratory drink and well as an excellent foil for sushi.  
93 Michael ApsteinJan 15, 2019