Michele Chiarlo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Tortoniano” 2013

($51):  This marvelous Barolo comes from grapes grown in the Cerequio and Sarmassa vineyards.  It’s classically proportioned, with a Burgundian-like sensibility of “flavor without weight.”  Elegant and refined, it packs plenty of flavor without a trace of heaviness.  Substantial, yet not aggressive tannins, in the finish remind you it’s a youthful Barolo.  Dare I say, it’s charming, not a word often associated with young Barolo.  I would either drink it this winter with substantial fare and capture its charm, or cellar it for 5 or 6 years.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 9, 2018