($58): Olivier Bernard, owner of Domaine de Chevalier, believes that the wines from Pessac-Léognan should be “feminine, not a powerhouse.”  In keeping with his philosophy, Domaine de Chevalier red is never a block-busting powerhouse.  But it’s always a majestic wine.  The 2014, while less concentrated and less dense than others from Pessac-Léognan, is exciting to taste.  It’s a magical combination of fruit and savory notes enveloped in supple tannins.  It has a Burgundian-like character.  Indeed, the phrase I often use to describe red Burgundy, “flavor without weight,” comes to mind.  It’s rare to find a wine of this caliber at this price.
94 Michael Apstein Feb 14, 2017