Cantina Lunae Bosoni, Colli di Lunae DOC (Liguria, Italy) “Niccolò V” 2010

($30, Montcalm Wine Imports): I don’t know enough about all the producers in Liguria to say that Lunae Bosoni is “the best.”  But what I can say, after tasting their wines for several years now at Montcalm’s annual portfolio tasting, is that they are a superb producer.  Red or white, it makes no difference.  I’d be pleased to have any of their wines on my table.  Take this red, for example.  It’s a blend of Sangiovese (70%) filled out with Merlot and Pollera Nera (a rare red grape practically unique to Liguria) aged in French oak that you might think is “modern” because of the Merlot and French oak.  But no.  The Merlot and barrique aging add a subtle dimension without overwhelming the wine.  Italian vivacity stands out in this mid-weight red and the slight bitterness in the finish makes you return for another sip after a bite of hearty pasta. It delivers more complexity and enjoyment than you’d expect at the price.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 20, 2016