($23): Traditionalists are advised not to read the technical details of this wine before tasting it.  The Cabernet Sauvignon (one-third of the blend), the year’s aging in new French oak and the 15% stated alcohol all have the capacity to obliterate the character of the wine and throw it out of balance.  It’s a testimony to Bolla that this wine is balanced, sophisticated and very easy to recommend.  Beautifully concentrated without being overdone, it delivers cherry-like nuances and great vibrancy.  A lovely — and lively — bitterness in the finish reinforces the idea that this is a grand wine.  Layers of flavor emerge as the wine sits for an hour or so in the glass, leaving an ever changing — but always enjoyable — impression.  This is a great example of thinking outside of the box to create a Super Veneto wine, at a Valpolicella price.  Enjoy this exceptional value this fall with lamb chops.
93 Michael Apstein Oct 14, 2014