Kilikanoon, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling “Mort’s Block” 2009

($35, Old Bridge Cellars):  One of my biggest surprises tasting wines was discovering how good Australian Riesling is.  The conventional wisdom is that Australia is hot (an overly broad generalization), and that Riesling needs cool climate (not always, it turns out).  This Riesling from the Watervale section, a well-known area for producing outstanding Riesling in Clare Valley, is sensational.  Fresh, dry and mineraly, it’s long and gracious.  Citrus elements amplify the finish and complement the edgy minerality.  This is a firm, bracing style of Riesling without a hint of sweetness. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 18, 2011