($33, Skurnik):  Rioja, Spain’s most well-known wine region, is one the rare places where the producer ages the wine for the consumer and releases it when it is ready to drink.  This decade-old wine is their current release.  From one of the region’s traditional–and best–producers, this aged Rioja delivers a panoply of dried fruit flavors, leafy nuances and hints of leather and other non-fruit flavors.  The tannins have softened nicely with age.  Uplifting acidity keeps it fresh.  It’s best with–not before–a dinner of grilled or roasted meat.  People looking for a fruit bomb will be disappointed.  But anyone who wants to discover the beauty of mature wine needs to try it. 92 Michael Apstein May 11, 2010