Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards, Columbia Valley (Washington) Red Wine “Tradition” 2003

($40): It’s rare for a domestic winery to hold a wine back for 5 years–although it may become more common (unintentionally) with the current economic conditions.  It’s a great opportunity for consumers to see for themselves how bottle age can transform and enhance a wine.  This wine is a blend of equal amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with a touch (5%) of Syrah thrown in.  Ripe black fruit flavors speak loudly but are not the sole voice.  Leafy, almost funky, notes–probably from Merlot–added an alluring savory component for a terrific sweet/savory juxtaposition. It’s a big wine with fine tannins that have become smooth and polished with time.  Broad and long, this nicely balanced powerhouse is ideal for steak. 93 Michael Apstein Feb 17, 2009