Dupont-Tisserandot, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2006

($55, VOS Selections): Village wines, caught between entry level regional Bourgogne or Côtes de Nuits Villages and the sought-after premier and grand crus, are often overlooked–even scorned–by Burgundy drinkers.  Don’t overlook this one.  It leads with a subtly floral nose and then grabs you with an elegant combination of spice, leather and earth.  It highlights the finesse and length on Pinot Noir as opposed to raw power. This is a fine example of a village wine. 88 Michael Apstein Jul 8, 2008