Mosnel, Franciacorta (Lombardy, Italy) “Satèn” 2020 ($71)

Franciacorta, arguably, Italy’s most high-end sparkling wine area, is nestled on the shores of Lake Iseo in Lombardy. In this compact region the shadow of the Alps shields the vineyards from the harsher northern European climate. Regulations for Satèn (literally, silky, in Italian), which happens to be my favorite type of Franciacorta, require the exclusive use of Chardonnay bottled under a slightly lower pressure. Most sparkling wines, Champagne included, have a pressure of about 6 bar (90 pounds per square inch [psi]). In contrast, producers bottle Satèn under about 5 bar of pressure, which results in a creamy texture, without losing a spine of balancing and invigorating acidity. (To put those numbers into perspective, automobile tires are typically filled to 2 bar or 30-35 psi.) Mosnel’s graceful and refined 2020 Satèn impresses with its glossy texture. Three years on the lees undoubtedly contributes to its subtle but elegant power and complexity. A fine and prolonged finish just adds to its allure.
95 Michael Apstein – Aug 6, 2025