($15):  The Albariño grape grown in Rias Baixas makes distinctive wine, which has become, justifiably, very hot recently because its edginess makes it a good choice with a wide variety of food.  The 2012 from Martín Códax has a hint of that edginess, but also delivers some subtle tropical flavors that makes it a good introduction for those who are just starting to embrace this grape and wine. … Read more

($21, Classic Wines): Godello, a grape indigenous to Valdeorras, a tiny DO in northwestern Spain, has great potential because it has the capacity to make a wine that combines a creamy richness with bold acidity.  The trick is to balance the two, as O Casal has done with their 2012 Casal Novo. … Read more

($20, Maisons Marques & Domaines): It should come as no surprise that Pazo Barrantes is a reliable label for an Albariño because that estate was founded and is still owned by the Creixell family, which also owns the exalted Rioja estate, Marqués de Murrieta. … Read more

($13, Europvin): Although 95% of Rioja’s production is red, the region makes some attractive whites and rosés.  And this rosé is one of them.  CVNE, one of the region’s top producers, used Tempranillo entirely for this crisp, lively wine.  Bright cherry-like fruit notes are framed by refreshing acidity. … Read more

($15, Jorge Ordonez Selection): This must be one of the most enjoyable $15 wines I’ve tasted recently.  It’s a classical and traditional Rioja with an unbeatable combination of red fruit flavors intertwined with herbal nuances and a little smokiness for good measure. … Read more

($22, The Rare Wine Company): Ricardo Perez and his uncle, Alvaro Palacios, whose last name is synonymous with great Spanish wine, are putting Bierzo and its unique grape, Mencia, on the world’s wine stage.  Located in rural middle of nowhere northwestern Spain, Bierzo never had a reputation for producing fine wine.  … Read more

($40, Rare Wine Company): Alvaro Palacios is one of the stars of Priorat, an area in Catalonia that he helped reinvigorate in the early 1990s.  Don’t be put off that Palacios refers to Les Terrasses his “third wine” behind Finca Dofi ($75) and super prized L’Ermita ($700). … Read more

($9, Bodega Real): This bottling, exclusively from Tempranillo, combines herbal notes, a subtle tarriness with perfectly ripe black fruit, all wrapped in suave tannins. It delivers unexpected complexity at the price. Plus, it finishes firm, not sweet. Those looking for stellar under $10 wine have found it.… Read more

($13, Aveníu Brands): This clean, crisp, citrus tinged wine is an ideal choice to accompany simply prepared fish or shellfish. There’s enough body and minerality so it comes across as bracing and refreshing, not sour or tart. It’s a great bargain.… Read more

($12, Votto Vines):  This snappy wine has more ripeness than Verdejo from Rueda because of the warmer clime in Almansa. But that doesn’t stop it from being energetic and lively. Its freshness persists into the finish and amplifies its verve. It’s perfect with shellfish or simple broiled fish.… Read more

($15): With a slightly softer profile than usual for the category, this wine is a good introduction to Rias Baixis and the Albariño grape. The wine still conveys the bite that makes that grape so appealing, but it’s more like a puppy’s nip.… Read more

($14, Martin Códax USA): With bright dark cherry-like fruitiness and vanilla-spiced oak flavors, this value-packed wine is a more modern interpretation of Rioja. Nicely balanced, vibrant acidity keeps it fresh. It’s a good everyday type of wine.
87 Michael Apstein Jan 1, 2013… Read more

($20, Las Rocas USA):  In addition to added complexity, the old vines (viñas viejas) used for this bottling provide riper grapes that translates into a bigger, more robust wine than their regular bottling (previously reviewed).  Despite an added tarry component and more power, its additional class prevents it from going over the top. … Read more

($14, Las Rocas USA):  The label gives no indication of the blend, but frankly, Las Rocas makes such consistently good value-packed wine, that whatever blend they select is fine with me.  This one is the lightest–but certainly not vapid–of their current trio of releases. … Read more

($15, Moolight Wine Company):  The Valdeorras DO, nestled in the northwest corner of Spain, has yet to gain the widespread recognition it deserves as a prime locale for the Godello grape and the wonderfully piercing wine that is made from it. … Read more

($14, Las Rocas USA): Spain remains a leading source for high quality reasonably priced wines, such as this one.  It’s a boisterous wine, suitable for grilled lamb and the like, but balances its 15.2% stated alcohol with more than just fruit flavors. … Read more

($20, Viño Cava):  Méntrida, a small DO in the large Castilla-La Mancha region, is starting to rediscover itself.  Although Garnacha is the most widely planted grape, some producers, such as Bodegas Arrayán, are experimenting with the so-called international varieties.  Bodegas Arrayán, at least, seems to be making it work. … Read more

($11, Para Family Organic Imports):  Although Graciano has the reputation of making a tough and tannic wine, Parra Jimenez has tamed it nicely.  It’s a dense wine with an alluring combination of earth and explosive black fruit.  Both savory and succulent, it would be a good choice for a butterflied leg of lamb on the grill. … Read more

($18, Classical Wines from Spain):  Angel Rodríquez is credited with saving the Verdejo grape from extinction by refusing to replace it in the 1970s with more prolific varieties, such as Viura and Palomino, in his Martínsancho vineyard.  I, like so many others, would like to thank him. … Read more

($10, Vineyard Varieties):  Bodegas Piqueras is the major producer of bottled (as opposed to bulk) wine in Almansa, a less well known DO in Castilla – La Mancha, Spain’s largest wine area.  This wine, made entirely from Monastrell (a.k.a. Mourvèdre) has appealing meaty or leathery undertones that offset its ripe bright fruitiness. … Read more

($23, Vineyard Varieties):  This high-octane (14.5% stated alcohol) blend of equal parts Garnacha Tintorera (aka Alicante), Monastrell, Tempranillo and Syrah, delivers power–no surprise there–and elegance.  The Syrah adds a ripe pluminess without eviscerating the underlying intrigue and savory notes of the other grapes. … Read more

($11, Parra Family):  Parra Jimenez has tamed Graciano, a tannic and dense grape sometimes used in Rioja, without eviscerating it.  An intriguing mixture of fruit and earth flavors, it still delivers dense explosive black fruit flavors.  But there’s also a savory, almost chewy component. … Read more

($16):  Telmo Rodriguez always thinks outside of the box.  He eschews the conventional Rioja classification of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva, which refers to the amount of aging the wine receives before release.  Rather, he prefers to highlight the site, the origin of the grapes, in this case from the village of Lanciega.… Read more

($18):  Valdeorras, the valley of gold, named because the Romans discovered the metal there, is nestled in the northwestern part of Spain.  The Mencia grape, usually associated with Bierzo, the adjacent DO, also does well in the region.  The beauty of wine made from Mencia, like this one, is the earthy, savory (non-fruit) nuances it delivers along with the charming combination of red fruit flavors. … Read more

($225, Moët Hennessey USA):  Wines trying to achieve “greatness” by relying on power alone fail because they lack elegance.  Power will get a wine noticed, but it is not the component that determines the wine’s quality.  Numanthia’s Termanthia, their top of the line wine made from vines that are over 100 years old, succeeds because it delivers great concentration while retaining elegance.… Read more

($30, Moët Hennessey USA):  Toro, like so many other Spanish appellations, is undergoing a renaissance led, in no small measure, by Numanthia.  (The winery takes its name from the nearby town of Numancia).  They make three wines, Termanthia, Numanthia (which leads to the perseverating Numanthia’s Numanthia) and this one, Termes, distinguished chiefly by the age of the vines. … Read more

($11, W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.):  This blend from Ramón Bilbao, a leading Rioja producer, delivers a juicy mixture of red and black fruit flavors.  Bright and robust, it has polished tannins that make it perfect for hearty fare now.… Read more

($8, Freixenet USA):  The Verdejo grape (not to be confused with the Verdelho grape) is the primary one used in Spain’s Rueda region, where it has achieved tremendous success.  As a result, others are growing it elsewhere in Spain.  Not entirely dry, this Verdejo has delicate peach undertones that make it a good choice with Asian food or as an aperitif. … Read more

($10, Freixenet USA):  Tapeña’s Tempranillo (also reviewed this week) their Garnacha is another easy-to-recommend bargain.  Slightly lighter than the Tempranillo with red, as opposed to dark, fruit flavors predominating, it has the same uplifting acidity and charm.  It will be a crowd pleaser on the Thanksgiving table.… Read more

($10, Freixenet USA):  Usually wines with cutesy names and labels disappoint.  The name of this one, suggestive of tapas, and the fork on the label qualifies for cutesy.  But the wine most definitely does not disappoint.  It’s a mid-weight cheery wine with attractive bitter dark cherry-tinged notes and fresh acidity that offsets the fruitiness. … Read more

($40, Palmina):  Priorat, a rugged, desolate and hot region is one of Spain’s top wine producing areas.  With alcohol levels easily reaching 15%, the wines are typically robust and powerful.  The best, like this one, convey an almost paradoxical elegance.  An explosion of exotic flavors–licorice and a tar-like minerality–burst force, but don’t overwhelm. … Read more

($21, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  Torres, Spain’s most renown producer, expanded their holdings in 2003 to include high altitude (about 3,000 feet elevation) vineyards in Ribera del Duero from which they make this wine.  Keeping with their style, it is beautifully balanced and polished with deep red fruit flavors and minerality. … Read more

($13, Vineyard Brands):  This mid-weight red shows the value of Rioja.  It strikes a good balance between ripe fruitiness, the barest hint of vanilla notes from aging in oak barrels and savory notes.  Immediately enjoyable because of smooth tannins, it’s a good choice for a slowly simmered stew this winter.… Read more

($25, Underdog Wine Merchants):  Technically, a Gran Reserva from Rioja must spend a minimum of two years in oak and then must be held at the winery until the sixth year after the vintage.  In reality, the winemaker must believe the wine has the requisite quality and stuffing to gain complexity with barrel and bottle aging. … Read more

($13, Pasternak Wine Imports):  The two unusual things about this wine is the color–it’s a white Rioja–and the name.  The official name is C.V.N.E. or Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España (The Northern Spanish Wine Company), but everyone refers to it simply as Cune. … Read more

($12, Aveniu Brands):  The absence of oak aging means the bright and juicy cherry-like flavors of this Tempranillo (100%) are readily apparent.  Lively and clean, spice nuances balance the fruit in this uncomplicated wine.  Tannins are barely noticeable.  If it were Italian, I’d call it a “pizza wine.” … Read more

($11, Underdog Wine Merchants):  Montecillo makes wonderful Rioja.  It turns out they do an admirable job with Albariño as well.  The Verdemar has a certain Muscadet-like character to it with an appealing chalky minerality and bright acidity.  It would be an excellent choice for simply broiled fish.… Read more

($10, Winebow):  In addition to this wine, Bodegas Fariña also produces the Dama de Toro line from, not surprisingly, the Toro region.  Though this one and their wines from Toro are 100% Tempranillo, they are quite different.  Tasting them side-by-side, which I recommend, reminds us of the importance of where the grapes grow. … Read more

($12, Winebow):  Though the muscular signature of wines from Toro is apparent, this wine remains lively and well balanced.  There’s an engaging combination of spice, earthy notes and black cherry-like fruit.  Mild tannins impart structure in this mid-weight wine without intruding.… Read more

($14, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  The blend–Moscato (85%) and Gewürztraminer–explains the floral, spicy character of this wine.  The aromas suggest sweetness, but it really isn’t.  Bright acidity keeps it balanced and makes it easy to drink throughout a meal.  Try it with highly spiced dishes that use Chorizo sausage or chili peppers because it will cut through anything.… Read more

($10, Winebow):  In addition to this wine, Bodegas Fariña also produces the Dama de Toro line from, not surprisingly, the Toro region.  Though this one and their wines from Toro are 100% Tempranillo, they are quite different.  Tasting them side-by-side, which I recommend, reminds us of the importance of where the grapes grow. … Read more

($12, Winebow):  Though the muscular signature of wines from Toro is apparent, this wine remains lively and well balanced.  There’s an engaging combination of spice, earthy notes and black cherry-like fruit. Mild tannins impart structure in this mid-weight wine without intruding.… Read more

($9, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.):  With their portfolio of wines, the Torres family has shown the world the incredible quality and value of Spanish wines.  This mid-weight blend of Garnacha (2/3rds) and Cariñena delivers far more complexity and nuance than the price suggests. … Read more

($15, Jorge Ordonez):  Rueda, a small D.O. in northern Spain, remains under-appreciated as a source for reasonably priced vibrant white wines.  This one, made entirely from Verdejo (not to be confused with Verdelho, a Portuguese variety also grown in Australia), has just the right balance of ripe green apple-like flavors and citrus zing. … Read more

($15, Folio Wine Company):  Alvaro Palacios, one of Spain’s leading winemakers, returned to his family’s property a decade ago after his father died and renovated the estate by replanting, lowering yields and redirecting the estate’s focus.  He jettisoned the traditional Rioja terminology of Joven, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. … Read more

($23, Jorge Ordonez):  Rioja, like many wine areas around the world, is home to producers who are breaking from tradition.  Miguel Angel De Gregorio, the winemaker at Finca Allende, eschews the traditional Rioja nomenclature of Crianza or Reserva, but still embraces the indigenous grapes, mainly Tempranillo, to make this bold wine. … Read more

($49, Frederick Wildman):  Baron de Ley, whose first vintage was 1990, has already shown its talent at combining the “traditional” and the “modern” in Rioja.  Instead of the common practice of purchasing grapes from neighbors to supplement their supply, they adopted the Bordeaux chateau model of using only their own fruit. … Read more

($85, Jorge Ordonez):  This, Finca Allende’s top wine and a traditional blend of Tempranillo (85%) and Graciano, comes from a single vineyard—the highest elevation in the town of Briones—that was planted in 1945.   The combination of elevation and old vines explains its extraordinary complexity. … Read more

($18, San Francisco Wine Exchange):  I tasted this wine about two months ago at a large tasting of Rioja and then shared a bottle at dinner just recently.  Among its peers at the tasting, it fell more into the “traditional” than “modern” style. … Read more