($20, Viño Cava):  Méntrida, a small DO in the large Castilla-La Mancha region, is starting to rediscover itself.  Although Garnacha is the most widely planted grape, some producers, such as Bodegas Arrayán, are experimenting with the so-called international varieties.  Bodegas Arrayán, at least, seems to be making it work.  Their Selección, a blend of equal parts (30%) of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, with Petit Verdot, it’s a modern, yet not “international” style, of wine.  A big wine, to be sure, it is neither over-oaked nor overdone.  A subtle and attractive tarry bitterness in the finish holds it all together and reminds you that this is not a New World fruit bomb.  A little awkward at this stage, it still needs a year or so to come together.  A reasonable alternative to cellaring it would be to open and decant it a few hours before throwing a slab of beef on the grill. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2012