($15): With a slightly softer profile than usual for the category, this wine is a good introduction to Rias Baixis and the Albariño grape. The wine still conveys the bite that makes that grape so appealing, but it’s more like a puppy’s nip. It would be a good choice the next time you’re having take-out Chinese food because it would cut through the spice yet not overwhelm more subtle flavors. 87 Michael Apstein Jan 1, 2013