($17, Kermit Lynch): Sparkling wines from the Loire Valley, usually made from Chenin Blanc, are less ‘serious’ than Champagne. But sometimes lively, less weighty fizz is just what you want. The major problem with bubbly from the Loire is that many are harsh and acidic. … Read more
Category Archives: France – Loire Valley
Domaine de la Quilla, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine (Loire Valley, France) Sur Lie 2005
($12, Robert Kacher Selections): The most distinctive wines from Muscadet, a large area at the western end of the Loire River where it empties into the Atlantic Ocean, come from the Sèvre et Maine sub region. The Sur Lie designation means that the wine ages on the spent yeast lees for a brief period which adds complexity (and, most importantly, keeps the wine fresh because the yeast act as an antioxidant protecting the wine). … Read more
Fernand Girard, Sancerre (Loire Valley, France) “La Garenne” 2005
($15, Louis Dressner Selections): This classic Sancerre delivers a balanced combination of minerals and herbs enlivened with refreshing acidity. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 31, 2006… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2002
($20, Ex Cellars): Anyone who believes that Chenin Blanc makes only insipid dry wine has never tasted Baumard’s Savennières. The 2002 has a magical combination of honey-like ripeness (without being sweet) intertwined with an alluring minerality. A versatile wine with food, it is ideal with flavorful Asian fare.… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume (Loire Valley, France) 2002
($60, Ex Cellars): A glorious wine, this is rich with ripe pear and honey flavors, but it also shows a captivating delicacy. The sweetness is balanced perfectly by focused acidity, providing a striking combination of richness and elegance. This is a must for your cellar.… Read more
Sauvion et Fils, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Château du Cléray 2003
($10, W.J. Deutsch & Sons): I’m not a fan of most 2003 white wines from Europe because the scorching summer robbed them of acidity. But it’s hard to kill the acid in the Melon de Bourgogne, the grape from which Muscadet is made.… Read more