($20, ExCellars): Savennières, a small appellation just down the Loire River from Vouvray, is another example in of why location matters. The grape, Chenin Blanc, is the same as in Vouvray, but here it is planted on slate or schist whereas in Vouvray the soil is mostly chalky.  As a result, Savennières in general, and certainly this one from one of the foremost producers in the area, have a pronounced minerality. This wine (not Baumard’s current release but still available at the wholesale level) has opened up nicely since it first appeared on these shores.  In addition to its signature minerality, it harbors an attractive nuance of ripe — but not pungent — cheese. The bracing acidity, characteristic of all of Baumard’s wine, has softened a bit with age. This unoaked, but full-bodied, dry, white Loire wine would match well with rich dishes. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 16, 2007