($10, W.J. Deutsch & Sons): I’m not a fan of most 2003 white wines from Europe because the scorching summer robbed them of acidity. But it’s hard to kill the acid in the Melon de Bourgogne, the grape from which Muscadet is made. Muscadet, which can often be a little lean, benefited from the extreme heat and the little extra ripeness in 2003. That ripeness and its citric acidity makes this one a great accompaniment to simple seafood, like steamed clams. 89 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2005