Category Archives: France – Burgundy

Louis Jadot, Côte de Beaune-Villages, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026
Warm vintages such as 2018, provide less prestigious appellations, such as this one, with often-needed ripeness which enhances their appeal. Though a négociant bottling, winemaker Frédéric Barnier included some declassified estate fruit from Santenay, Monthélie, Chorey- and Savigny-lès-Beaune, which likely accounts for the wine’s density.
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Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Beaumonts, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2021 – 2028
Chorey lès Beaune has no 1er cru and much of its vineyards lie on the other side of the D974 road connecting Dijon and Beaune. Les Beaumonts climat, however, lies on the ‘good’ side of the road, nestled between Aloxe-Corton and Savigny-lès-Beaune, which perhaps explains part of the nexpected grandeur for this unassuming village wine.
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Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Corton Les Pougets Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2026 – 2036
Jadot’s Pinot Noir in the Corton Les Pougets climat (also the site for their Corton-Charlemagne) is planted high up on the slope and faces south, which likely explains its consistent ripeness. The 2018 is, like Jadot’s other 2018 Côte de Beaune bottlings, wonderfully fresh and lively, balancing its iron-tinged fleshiness.
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Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Beaune, 1er Cru Clos des Ursules, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2023 – 2033
Still owned by the Jadot family, (hence, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot), this 2.8 hectare walled plot included within the 1er cru Vignes Franches, is Jadot’s flagship Beaune bottling. The 2018, to my mind, is one of the best Clos des Ursules Jadot has ever made – it is explosive, delivering both power and finesse, buttressed by freshness.
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Louis Jadot, Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2011

Drinking Window: 2021 – 2026
At a decade of age, this Jadot Corton-Charlemagne is a stunning surprise from this poorly-regarded vintage. Bright, fresh and long, it delivers distinct minerality, depth and an alluring hint of orange-rind spice. It’s a beautifully developed Corton-Charlemagne that is just hitting its stride and shows no signs of fading soon.
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Domaine Louis Jadot, Meursault, 1er Cru Perrieres, Burgundy, 2018

Drinking Window: 2024 – 2034
Jadot’s parcel lies near the top of the Les Perrières Dessus lieu-dit, a cooler site, which explains, in part, why this wine has such brilliant acidity, and, as a consequence, incredible length. Winemaker Frédéric Barnier also notes that they blocked the malolactic fermentation, preserving the more prominent malic acid in the wine.
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Château de la Maltroye, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos du Château de la Maltroye 2018

($96, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):  Château de la Maltroye, a consistently reliable producer of both red and white wines, succeeded admirably in 2018.  This white, from their monopole, exhibits the broader and weightier minerality characteristic of Chassagne, compared to Puligny.  Good acidity balances and amplifies its charms. Read more

Jean Pascal et Fils, Puligny-Montrachet (Burgundy, France) “Les Enseignères” 2019

($56, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):  This lieu-dit, entitled only to a village appellation, lies across the road, but downhill from the Grand Cru Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet.  Even in Jean Pascal’s talented hands, this village wine is not in the Grand Cru category, but it is more impressive than many producers’ premier cru — and at a far more attractive price. Read more

Domaine Paul Pernot et ses Fils, Bourgogne Blanc Côte d’Or (Burgundy, France) 2019

($30, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):  Domaine Paul Pernot, one of the top producers in Puligny-Montrachet, opts to use the new appellation, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, for this wine that they formerly labeled as Bourgogne Blanc.  The new appellation requires that the grapes come exclusively from the Côte d’Or, the heart of Burgundy.Read more

Gilles Lafouge, Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Duresses Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection 2018

($43):  With prices of Burgundy having gone through the roof, it’s a delight to find one that’s affordable, at least by Burgundy standards.  As I’ve long maintained, villages off the beaten path, such as Auxey-Duresses which sits behind Meursault, and talented producers who, for whatever reason, have never gotten the praise they deserve, like Gilles Lafouge, is the combination consumers should seek out. Read more

Domaine Bart, Marsannay (Côte de Nuits, Burgundy, France) Chardonnay Musqué Les Favières 2018

($35, Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection):  Domaine Bart, one of my favorite producers, flies under the radar.  Even their stunning Bonnes Mares fails to get the accolades it deserves.  They are best known for their array of reds from Marsannay, a village whose wines may lack cachet, but in the right hands deliver spectacular quality at an easy-on-the wallet price. Read more