($20, Kermit Lynch): The appellation system in the Languedoc is currently undergoing dramatic changes. Technically, this wine is still an AOC Coteaux du Languedoc with the name of the subregion, Montpeyroux, on the label. Soon, it will have its own appellation, simply Montpeyroux.… Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
CVNE, Rioja (Spain) Rosado 2011
($13, Europvin): Although 95% of Rioja’s production is red, the region makes some attractive whites and rosés. And this rosé is one of them. CVNE, one of the region’s top producers, used Tempranillo entirely for this crisp, lively wine. Bright cherry-like fruit notes are framed by refreshing acidity. … Read more
Rippon, Central Otago (New Zealand) Riesling 2009
($30, Station Imports): Although New Zealand’s Central Otago region on the South Island is prized Pinot Noir area–80% of the vineyards are planted to that grape–it should come as no surprise that Riesling does very well there as well because it, like Pinot Noir, likes cooler climate. … Read more
Burn Cottage, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2011
($50, Classic Wines): 
The international backgrounds of the people involved with Burn Cottage help explain why this Pinot Noir is exceptional. Marquis Sauvage, owner, though hailing from Kansas, is no stranger to the wine business. He and his family own wine distributorships in the Midwest and Koehler Ruprecht in the Rhinepfalz. … Read more
Couly-Duthei, Chinon (Loire Valley, France) “La Coulée Automnale” 2011
($15, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): 
I don’t have enough experience with Chinon to say that Couly-Dutheil is the area’s best producer. But I can’t think of producer whose wines are consistently better. Couly-Dutheil produces a variety of bottling reflecting the diversity and individuality of their vineyards.… Read more
Bodegas Ramírez de la Piscina, Rioja (Spain) Crianza 2008
($15, Jorge Ordonez Selection): This must be one of the most enjoyable $15 wines I’ve tasted recently. It’s a classical and traditional Rioja with an unbeatable combination of red fruit flavors intertwined with herbal nuances and a little smokiness for good measure. … Read more
Gascón, Mendoza (Argentina) “Colosal” 2011
($15, Gascon USA): The name says it all. Made from a blend of Malbec, Bonarda, Syrah and 
Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s a big juicy fruit forward wine with supple tannins. Easy to sip for those who like that style, Colosal would also go well with full flavored pasta dishes.… Read more
Ruinart, Champagne (France) NV
($82, Moët Hennessey): Founded in 1729, Ruinart is Champagne’s oldest house. They focus on Chardonnay, which explains why their stylish and elegant rosé contains such a large proportion of it in the blend, typically 45%. The remainder of the blend is Pinot Noir, which contributes bright red berry fruit notes. … Read more
Huia, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Gris 2009
($22, Adventures In Wine): It’s clear to me after tasting a range of aromatic white wines from New Zealand that the Kiwis make exciting whites in addition to their unique and distinctive Sauvignon Blanc. Huia’s Pinot Gris proves the point. It clearly has the weight of Pinot Gris — as opposed to the lighter style of Pinot Grigio, the other name for the same grape.… Read more
Forrest, Marlborough (New Zealand) Riesling “The Doctors’” 2011
($15, American Wine Distributors): The name of the wine reflects that the owners, John and Bridgett Forrest, both have PhDs. These smart people need to convey on the label the style of Riesling that’s in the bottle because it’s a touch sweet and consumers expecting dry Riesling will be startled. … Read more
Fonseca, Porto (Portugal) “Bin 27” NV
($21, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Fonseca’s Bin 27 is a satisfying Port you can enjoy every day, as opposed to vintage Port, which is a special occasion drink for most of us. As a ruby Port, Fonseca has aged it in large barrels for about five years, which softens it and makes it ready to drink upon release. … Read more
Croft, Porto (Portugal) 2009
($84, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Of the trio of 2009 vintage Ports from the family owned Fladgate Partnership, Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca and Croft, Croft’s is the silkiest at this stage. Supple and succulent, the ripe black fruit and spice almost caresses the palate. … Read more
Taylor Fladgate, Porto (Portugal) 2009
($100, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): 
Taylor’s 2009 vintage Port is stunningly good. The 2009 vintage Ports in general are riper because of the warmth of the growing season. Even with the added power and density, the 2009 Taylor Fladgate retains its hallmark elegance and firm minerality because its vineyards at Quinta de Vargellas, a major source for vintage Port, face north, which means the grapes receive less strong sun. … Read more
Fonseca, Porto (Portugal) 2009
($100, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Fonseca vintage Ports are typically slightly riper and less taut than Taylor’s because of the location of their major vineyard, Quinta do Panascal. The difference holds true in 2009, with the Fonseca delivering lots of plumy fruit offset beautifully by exotic spice and firm yet suave tannins. … Read more
Domaine Jean-David , Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages (Rhône Valley, France) 2011
($20, Polaner): Domaine Jean-David is a small 40-acre domaine located in Seguret, one of the 18 villages that make more distinctive wine and therefore are allowed to append their name to the Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages appellation. Made from the usual Mediterranean blend of Grenache (71%) and Carignan (14%) with Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Syrah rounding out the blend, it is both floral and mineraly with suave tannins. … Read more
Susana Balbo, Mendoza (Argentina) “Crios Rosé of Malbec” 2012
($15, Vine Connections): Susana Balbo is one of Argentina’s best and most reliable producers. Her wines are a fine place to start when exploring Argentine wines because she stratifies them into at least two levels based on quality. The Crios label is the lower one and consistently offers a good price/quality ratio. … Read more
Descendientes de J. Palacios, Bierzo (Spain) “Pétalos” 2010
($22, The Rare Wine Company): 
Ricardo Perez and his uncle, Alvaro Palacios, whose last name is synonymous with great Spanish wine, are putting Bierzo and its unique grape, Mencia, on the world’s wine stage. Located in rural middle of nowhere northwestern Spain, Bierzo never had a reputation for producing fine wine. … Read more
Mas des Brousses, Terrasses du Larzac (Coteaux du Languedoc, France) 2011
($26, Polaner): Although the Terrasses du Larzac, one of the best subregions of the Coteaux du Languedoc, has not yet gained official recognition, I have listed it as the appellation because it is expected to be awarded that status within the year. … Read more
Mas de Daumas Gassac, IGP Pays d’Hérault (Languedoc, France) “Moulin de Gassac Guilhem” 2011
($13, Polaner): Mas de Daumas Gassac, dubbed the Lafite of the Languedoc by France’s prestigious Gault et Millau guide in 1982, has been producing this value packed every day kind of wine since the early 1990s. It is not a second wine by any means since the blend–Syrah (40%), Grenache (25%), Mourvèdre (20%) and Carignan–bears no resemblance to their top wine, which is primarily (80%) Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more
Alvaro Palacios, Priorat (Spain) “Les Terrasses VV” 2010
($40, Rare Wine Company): 
Alvaro Palacios is one of the stars of Priorat, an area in Catalonia that he helped reinvigorate in the early 1990s. Don’t be put off that Palacios refers to Les Terrasses his “third wine” behind Finca Dofi ($75) and super prized L’Ermita ($700). … Read more
Domaine de Villalin, Quincy (Loire Valley, France) “Grandes Vignes de Villalin” 2011
($20, Polaner): Quincy, a small (400 acre) appellation in the Loire, is a good source for Sauvignon Blanc-based wines, especially as the prices of its more famous neighbor, Sancerre, escalate. This one has a milder, but still enticing, bite of Sauvignon Blanc supported by minerality and invigorating acidity. … Read more
Moulin Touchais, Coteaux-du-Layon (Loire Valley, France) 1985
($65, Polaner): You read the vintage correctly. The Touchais family, which has owned vineyards in the Coteaux-du-Layon appellation since the 18th century, produces sweet wines from extremely ripe Chenin Blanc grapes that concentrate their sugars by drying on the vines (as opposed to being affected by Botrytis). … Read more
Elke Vineyards, Anderson Valley (California) Pinot Noir Boonville Barter 2011
($26): Thanks goes to Christy Canterbury, MW, who suggested I try this wine at a recent tasting. It’s an incredible bargain for authentic Pinot Noir. Mary Elke and her team have captured the nuances of which the grape is capable. It has what I refer to as the “flavor without weight” character almost unique to Pinot Noir. … Read more
Susana Balbo, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($27, Vine Connections): Susana Balbo, one of Argentina great winemakers, has put together an easy-to-recommend wine by blending a small amount of Malbec (10%) with the Cabernet Sauvignon. Malbec adds an extra dimension to this fruit-forward weighty wine whose supple tannins allow for current consumption. … Read more
Gatinois, Champagne (France) “Vintage Brut Grand Cru” 2006
($70, Polaner): Gatinois, a family run firm located in the village of Äy, focuses on Pinot Noir-based Champagne because Äy is a Grand Cru village that is one of the top places for that varietal. As such, all their Champagnes have the power associated with that grape. … Read more
Agrapart & Fils, Champagne (France) “7 Crus Brut” NV
($53, Polaner): 
Agrapart & Fils, a small producer who farms about 25 acres of vineyards in the Côtes des Blancs, focuses, not surprisingly given their location, on Chardonnay. The 7 Crus Brut takes its name from the 7 villages, four of which are Grand Cru, from which the grapes come. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Meritage Red Wine “Artist Series” 2009
($55): This is a big, bold, Bordeaux-style blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (65%) and Merlot (27%). Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot round out the blend. Polished tannins and sweet dark fruit make it lovely for current consumption especially with a fire-grilled steak.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2009
($30): A big step up from their very good Columbia Valley Cabernet, this single vineyard bottling from Chateau Ste Michelle is worth the premium. Although it’s more concentrated, its real virtue lies in the plethora of flavors it delivers. To complement the black fruit, there’s minerality and hints of earth that impart a savory component.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) “Boreal” Red Wine 2009
($30): 
Chateau Ste. Michelle is on a roll with their Rhône-style wines. This gorgeous blend of Syrah (95%) and Viognier is another winner. It’s another one limited release wine, only 603 cases, that is worth the search. The Viognier adds intrigue and lift to the Syrah.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Mourvèdre Wahluke Slope 2009
($30): With only 613 cases produced, it will be difficult to find this wine. But it’s worth the search. At first glance, Mourvèdre, a grape that needs lots of heat to ripen, would seem out of place in Washington State. But one taste tells you it is not.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Merlot Canoe Ridge Estate 2010
($30): Good Merlot wines, like this one, should deliver at least a hint of leafy slightly funky notes that offset the ripe fruit flavors. Bob Bertheau’s team at Chateau Ste. Michelle has managed to balance the fruit, herbal nuances and oak so nothing dominates while conveying what I call “not just fruit” flavors.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
($15): At long last we are starting to see well-priced solid domestic Cabernet Sauvignon on the market. Bob Bertheau and his team have put together this straightforward Cabernet that delivers a delightful combination of fruit and herbs wrapped in polished tannins.… Read more
Le Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley) “Télégramme” 2009
($42, Kermit Lynch): The second wine of the famed Vieux Télégraphe, Télégramme is made from what the Brunier family calls their “young” Grenache vines, 20 to 25 years old! The 2009 vintage produced rich ripe wines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the ‘09 Télégramme fits that mold.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington State) Syrah “Ethos” 2009
($40): 
With Ethos, their Reserve bottling, Chateau Ste. Michelle brings together a fine amalgam of meaty and fruity flavors, both sides of what Syrah can offer. They should be congratulated because it’s clearly difficult to achieve this kind of balance. Bright acidity makes this a wine for food, not a stand alone aperitif.… Read more
Villavid Winery, Manchuela (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) “Villavid” 2011
($9, Bodega Real): This bottling, exclusively from Tempranillo, combines herbal notes, a subtle tarriness with perfectly ripe black fruit, all wrapped in suave tannins. It delivers unexpected complexity at the price. Plus, it finishes firm, not sweet. Those looking for stellar under $10 wine have found it.… Read more
Legaris, Rueda (Spain) Verdejo 2011
($13, Aveníu Brands): This clean, crisp, citrus tinged wine is an ideal choice to accompany simply prepared fish or shellfish. There’s enough body and minerality so it comes across as bracing and refreshing, not sour or tart. It’s a great bargain.… Read more
Domaines Schlumberger, Alsace (France) Pinot Gris “Les Princes Abbés” 2011
($24, Maisons Marques and Domaines): This ripe, yet not sweet, Pinot Gris delivers subtle peach and pear notes buttressed by good acidity. It’s depth and texture tells you it’s definitely in the Pinot Gris, as opposed to the lighter, more flowery Pinot Grigio, style.… Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “Selección” 2010
($14, Alamos USA): This Malbec falls into the category of a big red wine with soft tannins. The emphasis is on the ripe lush black fruit flavors. Easy enough to sip by itself because it’s so ripe, it’s a good choice for those seeking a fruity red to pair with mid-winter fare.… Read more
Alamos, Mendoza (Argentina) Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
($10, Alamos USA): Argentina has become the place to find solid wines that deliver more than 
the price suggests. And here’s another one of them. One of the finest ten dollar Cabernets I have tasted, it delivers ripe, yet not sweet, fruit surrounded by suave tannins.… Read more
Bodega Santa Cruz de Alpera, Almansa (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain) Verdejo “Santa Cruz de Alpera” NV
($12, Votto Vines): This snappy wine has more ripeness than Verdejo from Rueda because of the warmer clime in Almansa. But that doesn’t stop it from being energetic and lively. Its freshness persists into the finish and amplifies its verve. It’s perfect with shellfish or simple broiled fish.… Read more
Maison des Terroirs Vivants, IGP Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay “La Marouette” 2012
($14, The Organic Wine Company): Maison des Terroirs Vivants is one of the leading producers of organic wines in the Languedoc. They have an uncanny ability to find and bottle pristine wines and sell them at extraordinary prices. This Chardonnay has an engaging note of pineapple without being tropical or overdone.… Read more
Maison des Terroirs Vivants, IGP Pays d’Oc (Languedoc, France) Syrah “La Marouette” 2012
($15, The Organic Wine Company): An incredible value, this $15 Syrah manages to combine the attractive slightly beefy and the ripe plumy components that Syrah can deliver. It’s a masterful mix, especially at the price. Certainly bold enough for wintertime fare–or steaks on the grill (summer will eventually be here)–it’s not overdone or alcoholic.… Read more
Weingut Robert Weil, Kiedrich Gräfenberg (Rheingau, Germany) Riesling Auslese 2009
($85, Loosen Bros USA): This is a marvelous dessert wine. It’s sweet, but certainly not sugary or cloying. What amazes is the perfect, I mean perfect, balance of apricot skin tinged sweetness and riveting acidity. It’s so invigorating you hardly realize it’s sweet.… Read more
Isabel Mondavi, Carneros (California) Pinot Noir Estate 2009
($30): The Michael Mondavi Family Estate, who produces this wine, was founded after the family lost control of the Robert Mondavi winery. Though Michael, one of the sons of legendary winemaker Robert (and an extraordinarily talented winemaker in his own right), is involved in a series of projects, such as the wines under the Isabel Mondavi label, his son Rob Jr.… Read more
Quinta do Casal Branco, Tejo (Portugal) 2009
($8, J. Oliveira Selections): Many guests, foolishly, are hesitant to bring wine to a so-called “expert.” Well, fortunately, I have a friend who’s been learning about wine for a year or so who suggested I try this wine at dinner one night.… Read more
Bedell, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Merlot 2009
($30): Good choice, Mr. President. Selected to be served at the celebration of the President’s inauguration, this Merlot shows how far the wines from Long Island have come. It fits the Long Island wine style of falling between the heavier and riper ones from California and the more reticent ones coming from Bordeaux.… Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Merlot 2009
($30): This fleshy, supple Merlot packs plenty of ripe black fruit notes covered with suave tannins. With air, attractive leafy or earthy notes peak out and add complexity. Its refinement makes it a good choice for a rib roast.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2013… Read more
Truchard, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
($38): This lovely Cabernet marries ripe fruit and intriguing savory nuances buttressed by firm, yet not aggressive, tannins. What impresses is its restraint–not in flavor or in enjoyment–but in ripeness. As a result, a plethora of other flavors emerge as it sits in the glass.… Read more
Veramonte, Casablanca Valley (Chile) Pinot Noir “Ritual” 2010
($20, Huneeus Vintners): This collaborative effort by two giants, Chilean icon Agustin Hunees, and California star, Paul Hobbs, will appeal to those who like power in their Pinot Noir. Ripe black fruit notes a hint of seductive toasty oak come together in this rich full-blown wine.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay 2011
($15): Chateau Ste. Michelle knows its goals and achieves them on a regular basis. When they want to make a top of the line, head spinning wine, they do. When they set their sites on a more modest everyday type of wine, such as this Chardonnay, they also succeed admirably.… Read more