Craggy Range, Hawkes Bay (New Zealand) Gimblett Gravels Vineyard “Le Sol” 2009

($100, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Everyone these days knows that New Zealand is home to refreshing and zesty Sauvignon Blanc.  It’s no secret that Martinborough and Central Otago are giving Burgundy a run for its money with their Pinot Noir.  But Syrah?  Judging from this one, Syrah indeed.  Winemaker and viticulturist, Steve Smith, identified what he thinks is an ideal site in the warm Hawkes Bay area for this 100% Syrah.  But clearly the site is not too warm because the purple flower aromatics, which would be suffocated by a hot climate, burst from the glass.  Le Sol also shows the meaty notes that I associate with cooler sites, such as the Northern Rhône.  These savory nuances are a perfect foil for the plum-like flavors that Syrah delivers.  Waves of black fruits, herbs and minerality bombard the palate.  Yet there is a finesse and lifted quality to this wine that is unexpected and makes you return for more.  Craggy Range’s signature velvety texture makes drinking Le Sol very easy.  I know what to serve the next time I’m making New Zealand lamb.
96 Michael Apstein Jun 11, 2013