Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Maison Lou Dumont, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2012

($29, Langdon Shiverick Imports): A wonderful Bourgogne Rouge, this wine demonstrates the appeal of Pinot Noir grown in Burgundy, combining the fruitiness of the variety with the savory character that must come from the locale.  Its impact belies its delicacy.  A charming rusticity makes it an excellent choice for a roast chicken with an aromatic mushroom sauce. Read more

Mastroberardino, Taurasi Riserva (Campania, Italy) “Radici” 2006

($80): Though I’ve recommended this wine before, my enthusiasm for it just keeps increasing after tasting it a few more times.  Mastroberardino is perhaps the finest producer in Campania (full disclosure, I’ve not tasted wines from every producer located in that region around Naples, but I’ve also not found any yet that consistently stand up to those of Mastroberardino.) Read more

Domaine Marc Colin et Fils, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Sur le Sentier du Clou 2013

($58): Domaine Marc Colin, now run by his children, Damien, Joseph and Caroline, is a star producer in Burgundy, in general and in St. Aubin, in particular.  The domaine produces eight different–and distinct–premier crus from St. Aubin, a village that is slightly off the beaten track but lies adjacent to Chassagne Montrachet. Read more

Maison Louis Latour, Pouilly Fuissé (Mâcon, Burgundy, France) 2013

($24, Louis Latour USA): Though the 2014 vintage for whites looks outstanding at this stage, consumers should not overlook 2013 whites, such as this one.  Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, consistently makes a stylish and reasonably priced Pouilly-Fuissé.  With a creamy lushness and firm stony underpinning, the 2013 fits that mold beautifully. Read more

Pierre Gonon, St. Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2012

($53, Kermit Lynch): Wow.  You don’t normally expect this kind of power and finesse from a wine from St. Joseph.  But some producers are now demonstrating that St. Joseph can be a locale for great wines.  Though it’s a long narrow appellation on the west bank of the Rhône, a portion of it at its southern end sits directly across from Hermitage and indeed, the granite rock in which the vines are planted is identical to the soil across the river.  Read more

Château de Saint Cosme, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2012

($42): Gigondas, another one of the nine “cru” in the southern Rhône Valley whose wines are distinctive enough to warrant identification by only the name of the village, is capable of producing powerful, yet stylish wines.  This is one them.  Using the usual blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Cinsault, the team at Saint Cosme have fashioned a delightfully unusual combination of black fruit flavors, mineral-like nuances and herbal notes, all of which are wrapped in suave tannins.Read more

Château de Lavernette, Beaujolais Blanc (Burgundy, France) “Les Vignes de la Roche” 2013

($20, T. Edward Wines):  Yes, you read that correctly — white Beaujolais.  Though 95 percent of Beaujolais is red, a small amount of white wine made from Chardonnay is produced in the appellation.  And it shouldn’t be surprising since Beaujolais borders the appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé, a well-known white Burgundy.Read more

André Jacquart, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs “Brut Experience” NV

($55, Esprit du Vin): It’s unusual to find a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs Champagne.  This one is stunning and not to be missed.  The creamy elegance and precision for which Chardonnay-based Champagne is renown is immediately apparent.  Of course is doesn’t hurt that all the grapes come from their vineyards located in either Premier or Grand Cru villages on the Côte des Blancs, the best area in Champagne for Chardonnay. Read more

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Aux Malconsorts 2013

($475, Becky Wasserman Selection): The wines from Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, now run by Sylvain’s son, Sébastien, have become some of the most sought after in all of Burgundy.  The Premier Cru vineyard Aux Malconsorts is adjacent to and just south of the Grand Cru La Tache, which, in combination of the renown of the producer, explains the extraordinary price for a premier cru. Read more

Domaine Humbert Frères, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Petite Chapelle 2011

($100, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The “frères” running this Gevrey-Chambertin-based domaine are brothers Frédéric and Emmanuel Humbert.  Though not as revered as the 2010 vintage, 2011 nonetheless produced some stunning wines. Humbert Frères’ Petite Chapelle is one of them. The Petite Chapelle vineyard is an enclave of premier cru land surrounded on three sides by vineyards carrying the less prestigious village appellation and on the fourth side by the Grand Cru, Chapelle-Chambertin. Read more

Château Bourbon La Chapelle, Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2012

($17): This, the second wine of Château Castera, a property classified as one of the Cru Bourgeois of Médoc, shows the value of Bordeaux.  The current owners acquired Château Castera in1986 from famed Bordeaux merchant and property owner, Alexis Lichine.  The last 30 years have seen enormous renovations in the winery and the vineyards that explain the current high level of quality, even of their second wine. Read more

Château de Taillan, Haut-Médoc (Bordeaux, France) 2011

($21): This property, classified as a Cru Bourgeois, a category that accounts for less than 5 percent of all the properties in Bordeaux, reinforces the idea that Bordeaux is, indeed, the place for value-packed red wines.  Less weighty and fruit-focused than California Merlot, this blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc has a beguiling combination of fruitiness and earthiness supported by firm, but not aggressive, structure and uplifting acidity. Read more

Stéphane Aviron, Fleurie (Beaujolais, France) Domaine de la Madrière Vieilles Vignes 2013

($24, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): There’s no better way to learn about the differences between the cru of Beaujolais than by tasting the wines of Stéphane Aviron, one of the appellation’s top producers.  The house characteristics — precision and harmony — are apparent in all of them, but each reflects the specific terroir of the region. Read more

Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Merlot Stagecoach Vineyard 2012

($40): Those consumers looking for “a glass of Merlot” before dinner should avoid this wine.  Those, however, who want to see for themselves the complexity that the varietal can deliver should embrace it.  There’s a hint of leafiness and earthiness that, frankly, a Merlot-based wine should deliver to accompany and complement the black fruit notes. Read more

Miner Family Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard 2012

($75): Though Dave and Emily Miner founded their eponymous winery less than 20 years ago, they must be included among any list of the top tier of Napa Valley producers, at least judging from their current releases from there.  This Cabernet Sauvignon has the captivating — and paradoxical — combination of an almost chewy yet very polished texture. Read more

Grgich Hills Estate, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Yountville Selection” 2011

($185): There’s no question that Grgich Hills’ Yountville Selection Cabernet ranks with California’s greatest red wines.  Once again, the winemaking team at Grgich Hills manages to convey great power without overdoing anything.  Indeed, the marvel of this wine is its elegance, which is in keeping with the Grgich Hills style. Read more