($23, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): The transformation of Maison Joseph Faiveley under the leadership of Erwan Faiveley and his team has been extraordinary, catapulting the house into the top tier of Burgundy’s top producers. And the quality of the wines shows at all levels, from their top Grand Crus to this “simple” Bourgogne Rouge, which shows the charm and allure of red Burgundy. … Read more
Category Archives: WRO Reviews
Château Durfort-Vivens, Margaux (Bordeaux, France) “Vivens” 2009
($38): 
I highly recommend the second wines of the top estates in Bordeaux, especially as the prices of the grand vins make them unattainable for most of us. Vivens from Château Durfort-Vivens is an especially attractive one. Château Durfort-Vivens, classified as a 2nd growth in the Médoc classification of 1855, is regaining its former stature under the guidance of Gonzague Lurton, part of the family whose name implies excellence in Bordeaux. … Read more
Macari Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) “Number 1” 2013
($27): Macari, a top winery on Long Island, doesn’t rest on its laurels. It, like many cutting edge wineries, is using large oval tanks made of concrete (“concrete eggs”) for fermentation. The idea is that the porosity of these concrete eggs lies somewhere between stainless steel and wood and imparts finesse to the wine without wood flavors. … Read more
Ryan William Vineyard, Finger Lakes (New York) Dry Riesling 2012
($22, T. Edward Wines): This Riesling shows why the Finger Lakes region is rapidly becoming known as THE place for Riesling in America. Ryan William Vineyard’s 2012 delivers a zesty cutting edge seasoned with the barest hint of spice. All the components come together seamlessly, adding to its appeal. … Read more
Macari Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Cabernet Franc 2010
($34): Long Island wines do not command the respect they deserve. Though many producers there believe Merlot to be the island’s signature grape, my vote goes to Cabernet Franc and Macari’s 2010 shows why. To use a highly technical word, it’s yummy. … Read more
Monte Bernardi, Chianti Classico Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) Sa’Etta 2011
($41, T. Edward Wines): Some Tuscan producers refer to their wines made exclusively from Sangiovese grown in the Chianti Classico region as a Super Tuscan wine. Others, such as Monte Bernardi, prefer to label theirs as Chianti Classico Riserva. This wine shows that Chianti Classico can have all of the appeal and pizzazz of the so-called Super Tuscans. … Read more
Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Fossati 2008
($68, T. Edward Wines): As of 2008 Borgogno decided to bottle wines from specific vineyards separately. Prior to that time, they blended the wines and labeled them as Barolo or Barolo Riserva. Fossati, a cru or vineyard (as opposed to a proprietary name), is located in the village of Barolo itself. … Read more
Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Cannubi 2008
($134, T. Edward Wines): Wines from Cannubi, one of the very best vineyards in the Barolo zone, are capable of an amazing combination of grace and power. While some growers may attempt to capitalize on the name Cannubi to sell their wines, others aim to express the grandeur the vineyard has to offer. … Read more
Rio Maggio, Offida Pecorino DO (Marche, Italy) Pecorino “Colle Monteverde” 2014
($18, T. Edward Wines): Pecorino is also a grape, not only a cheese. And one that is capable of producing lively white wines with refreshing vibrancy, such as this one. This light wine delivers a precise cutting edge without being aggressive. … Read more
Chene Bleu, IGP Vaucluse (Rhône Valley, France) “Héloise” 2009
($110, Wilson Daniels): Nicole Rolet and her team at Chene Bleu are shooting for the stars with their wines, aiming to be one of the Rhone’s top producers. And they are well on their way. This is a property to watch. … Read more
Domaine Sainte Croix, Corbières (Languedoc, France) “Le Fournas” 2012
($16, T. Edward Wines): Corbières, one of the many appellations in the Languedoc, offers sturdy reds, such as this one, ideal for wintery fare. Dark fruit flavors dominate in this blend of Carignan, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, but do not overpower, and harmonize nicely with herbal notes. … Read more
Domaines Leflaive, Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy, France) 2013
($46, Wilson Daniels): 
Domaine Leflaive, arguably Burgundy’s finest white wine estate, made a foray into the Mâconnais in 2004, buying 23 acres of Chardonnay vineyards and producing an eye-popping white wine from that region. They have been extremely happy with the project, have expanded it and currently have about 75 acres there. … Read more
Beronia, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2010
($19, San Francisco Wine Exchange): I continue to be amazed — year after year — by the value Rioja delivers. It’s hard to imagine a more delightful wine selling for less than $20. It’s a balance of sweet, yet not heavy, fruit coupled with savory elements. … Read more
Beronia, Rioja Gran Reserva (Spain) 2006
($29, San Francisco Wine Exchange): 
Full disclosure, this wine gets additional points for value. I would run to buy it because wines of this quality at this price will disappear rapidly. Another fabulous bargain from Beronia, a Rioja producer whose well-priced wines rarely fail to thrill, it’s a traditional blend of Tempranillo (95%), Graciano and Mazuelo.… Read more
Viña Altamar, Ribera del Duero (Spain) Tempranillo 2013
($14, Hammeken Cellars): It is rare to find a wine from Ribera de Duero, one of Spain’s top wine areas, at this price. Especially one of this quality. Stony elements buttress the lovely rich, but not jammy, dark fruit flavors. Far more sophisticated than the price suggests, it has polished tannins and wonderful structure. … Read more
Louis Baisinbert, Montagny Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2013
($40): 
Louis Baisinbert is a name to watch. He is a small négociant — some would call him a “micro-negociant” — buying no more than a half dozen barrels of an individual wine from a single producer. He supplies the barrels, never new oak, and performs the elevage, which is literally raising (finishing) the wine. … Read more
Domaine Vocoret, Chablis Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) Blanchot 2012
($71): Chablis remains an underappreciated, and hence, under priced source of unique white Burgundy. While not inexpensive, it is practically impossible to fine Côte d’Or Grand Cru at this price. And this wine is truly worthy of the Grand Cru moniker. … Read more
Louis Baisinbert, Givry Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Les Combes 2013
($40): 
Baisinbert made just two barrels of this charming red. Wonderfully fragrant, it delivers bright raspberry-like fruitiness without a trace of heaviness or jamminess. He has delivered a wine with good body and concentration, avoiding the leanness often found in wines from Givry. … Read more
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2013
($66, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): Wines from Gevrey-Chambertin, one of the most recognizable and prestigious villages in Burgundy, are always pricey. Négociants tell me that it is increasingly difficult for them to find good sources as more and more growers bottle their own production instead of selling it in bulk to négociants.… Read more
Château du Moulin-à-Vent, Moulin-à-Vent (Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) 2012
($30, Wilson Daniels): 
Moulin-à-Vent, with its iconic windmill perched at the top of the hill, is the most revered of the ten crus of Beaujolais. The cru are small areas in the north of Beaujolais with granitic soil which produce wines that couldn’t be further from the tutti-frutti character of Beaujolais Nouveau, which, sadly, remains the image of the region to far too many consumers. … Read more
Grosset, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling Springvale 2014
($34): 
Jeffrey Grosset describes his 2014 Springvale Riesling as a “soft rock” compared to the Polish Hill Riesling, which he characterizes as a “hard rock.” It’s an apt comparison. The Springvale Riesling is more floral and slightly richer, but retains the wonderful cutting dry edginess characteristic of Grosset’s wines. … Read more
Grosset, Clare Valley (South Australia) Riesling Polish Hill 2014
($49): 
Jeffrey Grosset makes an array of fabulous Rieslings. Despite the impression — erroneous, as it turns out — that Australia falls into the “warm weather” category for winemaking, the Clare Valley is home to exceptional Riesling. Jeffrey Grosset told me that they have such ideal conditions there for that grape that they have not needed to acidity the wines for the last 14 vintages since they transformed the vineyard to organic farming. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2013
($48): Merry Edwards is one of my favorite California Pinot Noir producers. One of her many virtues is that she’s not trying to make red Burgundy. Her wines express the climate and warmth of California without being overly ripe or heavy. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Coopersmith Vineyard 2013
($63): Merry Edwards’ Coopersmith Pinot Noir is proportioned similarly to her Georganne bottling. At this stage the black fruit is more apparent with the savory notes playing in the background. It has the same suave texture, with juicy acidity and well-polished tannins. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2013
($60): In addition to consistently making a fabulous array of Pinot Noir, Merry Edwards is a genius with her single vineyard bottlings. She embraces the Burgundian magic of terroir: How the same grapes grown in different vineyards express themselves differently in the respective wines. … Read more
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane 2013
($65): With a different profile than her other Pinots — more red than black fruit intermingled with the hard to describe “leafy” character — Merry Edwards’ Olivet Lane shows the virtue of single vineyard bottlings. Though all of the hallmarks of Merry Edwards’ wines are there: Beautiful balance, well structured but not oppressive tannins, and freshness, the wine is still unique. … Read more
Maison L’Envoye, Bourgogne Rouge (Burgundy, France) 2012
($25, Old Bridge Cellars): 
Maison L’Envoyé brings together Evening Land founder Mark Tarlov and the very talented Burgundy guru, Becky Wasserman (according to their promotional materials, which also tell us that the grapes come from growers’ vineyards in Beaune, the Hautes-Côtes, and even premier cru Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Marconnets).… Read more
Maison L’Envoye, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “Two Messengers” 2013
($30): Perhaps the “Two Messengers” tag reflects the collaboration between Burgundy’s Louis-Michael Liger-Belair and the Willamette Valley. Or perhaps it’s the combination of two complementary flavors — ripe fruit and savory nuances. Whatever the origin of the name, the wine is easy to recommend because it does bring together the Janus-like essence of Pinot Noir, with bright red fruit notes harmonized with earthy complexity. … Read more
Ponzi Vineyards, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir 2013
($40): Ponzi, one of the pioneers in the Oregon wine industry, continues to show that Pinot Noir is well-suited to Willamette’s climate and soil. Whereas their Tavola bottling focuses more on bright fruit, the Willamette Valley label has the near magical combination of smoky savory nuances to complement the dark fruit notes. … Read more
Quinta do Noval, Oporto (Portugal) 10 Year-Old Tawny Porto NV
($31): 
Along with winter, at least as measured by the calendar, comes the Port season. A high-quality 10-year-old Tawny, such as this one from Noval, is a perfect way to start the season and end a meal. Tawnies are unfussy: Open the bottle, pour and enjoy, then re-cork and repeat the next day. … Read more
Mt. Beautiful, North Canterbury (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2014
($26): 
Though not terribly complex, it’s hard to find authentic Pinot Noir at this price, which is why anyone with an interest in this varietal should embrace this bottling. It delivers light, bright red cherry-like flavors enrobed by mild tannins, making it an excellent choice for current drinking. … Read more
Prá, Soave (Veneto, Italy) “Otto” 2014
($13): 
Soave, an underappreciated region in Italy, is home to wonderfully satisfying white wines when made by a top producer, such as Prá. Even this one, one of Prà’s basic bottlings, delivers good intensity offset by characteristic Italian verve. Round enough to sip on its own, it has sufficient structure to pair well with sushi.… Read more
Marie-Pierre Manciat, Pouilly-Fuissé (Burgundy, France) Les Petites Bruyères 2012
($25, Langdon Shiverick Imports): This is another example of why Pouilly-Fuissé is such a popular appellation, home to Chardonnay-based stylish wines at an excellent price. Marie-Pierre took the reins from her father, Claude, in 2002 and, judging from this classy wine, she is a top producer in the appellation. … Read more
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2012
($36, Vineyard Brands): Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, a top-notch producer based in Nuits St. Georges, has, like other Burgundy producers, expanded into Beaujolais. In 2012, he produced two captivating wines from Moulin-à-Vent, the best of appellation’s 10 crus. The 2012 Vieilles Vignes, which comes from a variety of parcels within Moulin-à-Vent, transmits the granitic character of the region with a deep earthy firmness. … Read more
Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair, Moulin-à-Vent (Burgundy, France) La Roche 2012
($41, Vineyard Brands): 
More and more producers in Beaujolais are treating the area, especially Moulin-à-Vent, like the rest of Burgundy — as it deserves to be in my mind. That is, they are making wine from individual vineyards and labeling them as such. … Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2012
($35): Although this is comprised of a blend similar to that of the 2005 Les Arums, the richness in the 2012 comes across as heavy. While it may be going through an awkward stage now, I doubt it will ever deliver the pleasure the 2005 provides.… Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2010
($35): A lovely firm stony quality offsets the toasty richness. At this stage, the elements are not fully integrated and it lacks the elegance of the 2005.
88 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015… Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2005
($40): 
A rich wine, no doubt a result of the vintage and the inclusion of Muscadelle and a healthy amount of Sauvignon Gris in the blend. Creamy and glossy, it has developed nicely after a decade, retaining a surprising vigor.
91 Michael Apstein Dec 15, 2015… Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2013
($34): There’s magic in this wine. Fresh and precise, it conveys citrus notes and engaging bit of spice. It maintains plenty of richness, which is buttressed by freshness and vivacity. The pungency of Sauvignon Blanc is more apparent here since the proportion of that variety has been increased at the expense of Sémillon and Sauvignon Gris. … Read more
Château Lagrange, Bordeaux Blanc (France) “Les Arums de Lagrange” 2014
($35): 
The 2014 vintage was the first that came entirely from Lagrange’s new plantings. Compared to the 2013, the 2014 is slightly more intense without losing any elegance or precision. It conveys a marvelous combination of floral notes, grapefruit rind-like punch and even a hint of white pepper. … Read more
Rodney Strong, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2013
($25): Let’s hope that this example of lighter, fresher and more vibrant Chardonnay from California is truly here to stay. There’s still plenty of richness, but the overall impression is lightness and vivacity. The winery attributes the character of this stylish Chardonnay to their vineyard’s location near the cooling influences of the Pacific Ocean. … Read more
Dominus Estate, Napa Valley (California) 2011
($150): 
Dominus Estate has become a California icon in barely over 3 decades since Christian Moueix purchased the famed Napanook Vineyard in 1982. The first vintage, 1983, was a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) and Merlot. Over the decades the Bordeaux focus has been constant while the blend has shifted to mostly Cabernet Sauvignon supplemented with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. … Read more
Quinta dos Murças, Douro (Portugal) “Assobio” 2012
($14, Aidil Wines and Liquors): This wine shows precisely why blended reds from Portugal will be taking the market by storm in the coming years. A big, chunky red, with round, mild softish tannins, it’s similar in size to Malbec, but with far more complexity and interest. … Read more
Quinta dos Murças, (Portugal) Reserva 2010
($36, Aidil Wines and Liquors): 
The Assobio and Reserva are my first experience with this producer. They won’t be my last. Though more than twice the price of their Assobio, the Reserva from Quinta dos Murças is worth it. It combines ripe — but not sweet — fruit with herbal nuances and a delectable earthiness. … Read more
Babich, Marlborough (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2013
($18): 
The Marlborough region of New Zealand, though famous for its unique and electrifying style of Sauvignon Blanc, is not a one-trick pony, as this Pinot Noir clearly shows. A lighter style of Pinot Noir, it delivers a delightful combination of red fruit, savory notes and spice. … Read more
Amisfield, Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir 2012
($39): 
Central Otago, an area on the southern end of New Zealand’s South Island, is making a name for itself as a place for stylish Pinot Noir. Despite its more southerly locale (which should be cooler in the Southern Hemisphere), the Pinot Noirs from Central Otago are riper and more powerful than those for other areas of New Zealand, such as Marlborough and Martinborough because the area is more inland with fewer maritime influences. … Read more
Agricola Querciabella, IGT Toscana (Italy) “Camartina” 2010
($140): 
Founded only in 1974, Querciabella has leapt to the top tier of Tuscan producers, making an exceptional range of both red and white wines. Camartina, a blend of roughly 2/3 Cabernet Sauvignon and 1/3 Sangiovese, is their flagship red. It’s always a majestic wine, but the 2010 is even more extraordinary than usual. … Read more
Domaine Francoise André, Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc (Burgundy, France) 2011
($45, Langdon Shiverick Imports): Pernand-Vergelesses, located behind (to the west) of the Hill of Corton is slightly off the beaten track, despite laying claim to a sizeable portion of the Grand Cru vineyard, Corton Charlemagne. As a result, its wines can represent good value — we’re not talking inexpensive, this is Burgundy, after all. … Read more
Samuel Billaud, Chablis Premier Cru (Burgundy, France) Mont de Milieu 2013
($41, Langdon Shiverick Imports): 
The 2013 vintage lacks the reputation of the great ones, 2010 and 2012, in Chablis. But consumers should not overlook it. Talented producers, such as Samuel Billaud, make excellent wines even in what is often called “difficult” years. … Read more
Maison Lou Dumont, Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy, France) 2012
($60, Langdon Shiverick Imports): 
Koji Nakada, a former Japanese sommelier, created Maison Lou Dumont along with his wife in 2000. Though they now own a few acres of vineyards, most of their wine comes from the time-honored Burgundian tradition of being a négociant — buying grapes from growers, vinifying, aging and bottling the wine themselves. … Read more