Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) Fossati 2008

($68, T. Edward Wines): As of 2008 Borgogno decided to bottle wines from specific vineyards separately.  Prior to that time, they blended the wines and labeled them as Barolo or Barolo Riserva.  Fossati, a cru or vineyard (as opposed to a proprietary name), is located in the village of Barolo itself.  The wine, while still young and vigorous, delivers a splendid balance of seemingly paradoxical flowery and tarry elements.  It expands with time in the glass, gaining complexity and even more allure.  Though enjoyable now with hearty pasta, it would be even better if you could leave it in the cellar for another decade.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 12, 2016