($20, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Maison Joseph Faiveley, under the able leadership of Erwan Faiveley, has been transforming itself from a small domaine within large négociant business to a large domaine with a far smaller négociant component.  As part of that transformation, Faiveley has been purchasing smaller domaines, such as Billaud-Simon, one of my favorite Chablis producers.  I suspect under the Faiveley leadership, the Billaud-Simon wines will get even better.  For those unfamiliar with Billaud-Simon or Chablis in general, this 2014 Petit Chablis is an excellent place to start.  Petit Chablis, still made entirely from Chardonnay, refers to vineyards that have little or none of the classic Chablis Kimmeridgian limestone in the soil.  As such, they are typically slightly fruitier than straight village Chablis.  In this one a bright crispness and a hint of flintiness balances the delicate fruitiness.  It’s a wine to drink now, with simply broiled fish, while it is vibrant and fresh.
88 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2016