Category Archives: France – Champagne

Jacquart, Champagne (France) “Cuvée Mosaïque” Brut NV

($36, JAD Imports): Jacquart, a small Champagne house, makes a stylish array of Champagne.  This, their non-vintage Brut, dubbed Cuvée Mosaïque, delivers a lush creaminess and a hint of baked apple. A firm backbone keeps this polished bubbly in balance.  Of course, it’s ideal as a stand-alone drink–and a very fine one at that — but it also reminds us that Champagne is great with a variety of dishes. … Read more

Deutz, Champagne (France) Brut NV

($44, Adrian Chalk Selections): Deutz, an under-recognized house, makes consistently lovely Champagne that are pleasantly powerful — a substantial amount of Pinot Noir speaking — while retaining elegance.  This one, their non-vintage Brut, has an appealing roundness and mouth-filling quality. Their mid-weight style makes it easy to sip as an aperitif or to pair with a simply grilled white fish, such as sea bass.… Read more

Philipponnat, Champagne (France) “Grand Blanc” Brut 2002

($70, Ex Cellars Wine Agency):  Philipponnat is probably the most under-appreciated Champagne firm.  They make a great array of wines, but, curiously, have little name recognition in this country.  Although they are best known for the Pinot Noir-dominant wines (especially their stunning Clos des Goisses) this Grand Blanc, made exclusively from Chardonnay, shows they are equally talented with that varietal. … Read more

Alain Soutiran, Champagne (France) Brut NV

($55, Vintage ’59 Imports): Soutiran, a small grower located in Ambonnay, a Grand Cru village known for Pinot Noir, makes a stunning and powerful non-vintage Brut from the roughly 50 acres he owns or farms there for other family members.  Part of its complexity comes from Soutiran’s practice of aging his reserve wines in barrel as opposed to the more usual practice of using stainless steel tanks. … Read more

Ruinart, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut NV

($69, Moet Hennessy USA): Ruinart, the oldest Champagne house in the world and dating from 1729, is making a welcome reappearance on these shores.  The Chardonnay grapes for this Blanc de Blancs come exclusively from premier cru villages.  A small amount of the Chardonnay comes from the Montagne de Reims, an area traditionally known for Pinot Noir, not Chardonnay. … Read more

Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut “Rare Vintage” 1988

($100, Moet Hennessy USA): This has to be the Champagne deal of decade.  Veuve Clicquot, like many Champagne houses, opted to re-release older vintages into the market so customers can discover the glorious taste of mature Champagne.  Aged on the lees–the dead yeast–for almost a decade and then aged for an equal time in the bottle, this wine delivers a complex array of nutty, toasty and yeasty flavors balanced beautifully by an uplifting freshness–acidity imparted by the bubbles. … Read more

Philipponnat, Champagne (France) “Clos des Goisses” Brut 1996

($120, Ex-Cellars): Although Philipponnat’s Clos des Goisses is from a single vineyard, the vineyard’s exposure is varied, which allows blending of wines from different plots to achieve an extraordinary balance of power, elegance and freshness. The vineyard, almost 14 acres planted roughly two-thirds to Pinot Noir and one-third to Chardonnay, comprises a steep due-south-facing slope where grapes achieve full ripeness, and an east-facing portion where grapes become less ripe but have higher acidity.… Read more

Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut “Grande Année” 1997

($110, Paterno): Bollinger’s vintage Champagne, Grande Année, is rapidly reaching tête du cuvée prices, but at least the quality is there. No longer the bargain of past years (but what is?) Bollinger continues to make stunning vintage Champagne. More forward than their superb 1996, the 1997 Grand Année has that signature brioche toastiness, penetrating flavors without being aggressive, and luxurious length.… Read more