($74, Wilson Daniels, Ltd.): I suppose it is no surprise that Delamotte, a house located in Mesnil (perhaps the single best village in the Cotes des Blanc, the area of Champagne where Chardonnay reigns supreme) should make a stellar Blanc de Blancs.… Read more

($110, Paterno): Bollinger’s vintage Champagne, Grande Année, is rapidly reaching tête du cuvée prices, but at least the quality is there. No longer the bargain of past years (but what is?) Bollinger continues to make stunning vintage Champagne. More forward than their superb 1996, the 1997 Grand Année has that signature brioche toastiness, penetrating flavors without being aggressive, and luxurious length.… Read more

($80, Moët-Hennessy USA): The 1999 rendition of Cliquot’s rosé is more forward than usual, but the house has nonetheless continued its streak of excellent Rosés with this exotically flavored offering. The strawberry and other red fruit flavors from Pinot Noir leap from the glass but are balanced by firm acidity and even a hint of tannin.… Read more

($50, Partner’s Wine Marketing): Most vintage Champagnes from this monumental year have disappeared from retailers’ shelves, but happily Duval-Leroy just released theirs. Disgorged in October 2004 after 7 years on the lees, it has gorgeous toasty/yeasty qualities, the creamy elegance of Chardonnay and a seemingly endless finish.… Read more

($85, Laurent-Perrier USA): Do not let the lack of a vintage date deter you from enjoying this fabulous tête de cuvée Champagne. Laurent-Perrier’s tradition is to blend their best wines exclusively from grand cru villages from the last three vintages to fashion this luxurious bottling.… Read more