Category Archives: France – Champagne

Philipponnat, Champagne (France) “Clos des Goisses” Brut 1996

($120, Ex-Cellars): Although Philipponnat’s Clos des Goisses is from a single vineyard, the vineyard’s exposure is varied, which allows blending of wines from different plots to achieve an extraordinary balance of power, elegance and freshness. The vineyard, almost 14 acres planted roughly two-thirds to Pinot Noir and one-third to Chardonnay, comprises a steep due-south-facing slope where grapes achieve full ripeness, and an east-facing portion where grapes become less ripe but have higher acidity.… Read more

Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut “Grande Année” 1997

($110, Paterno): Bollinger’s vintage Champagne, Grande Année, is rapidly reaching tête du cuvée prices, but at least the quality is there. No longer the bargain of past years (but what is?) Bollinger continues to make stunning vintage Champagne. More forward than their superb 1996, the 1997 Grand Année has that signature brioche toastiness, penetrating flavors without being aggressive, and luxurious length.… Read more