Philipponnat, Champagne (France) “Clos des Goisses” Brut 1996

($120, Ex-Cellars): Although Philipponnat’s Clos des Goisses is from a single vineyard, the vineyard’s exposure is varied, which allows blending of wines from different plots to achieve an extraordinary balance of power, elegance and freshness. The vineyard, almost 14 acres planted roughly two-thirds to Pinot Noir and one-third to Chardonnay, comprises a steep due-south-facing slope where grapes achieve full ripeness, and an east-facing portion where grapes become less ripe but have higher acidity. The 1996 is an extraordinary accomplishment — from one of Champagne’s great vintages — that combines layers of intensity and finesse with length. Even at 10 years of age, it’s a baby that needs another five to ten years to unfold and evolve. But it will be worth the wait. 97 Michael Apstein Dec 26, 2006