($110, Paterno): Bollinger’s vintage Champagne, Grande Année, is rapidly reaching tête du cuvée prices, but at least the quality is there. No longer the bargain of past years (but what is?) Bollinger continues to make stunning vintage Champagne. More forward than their superb 1996, the 1997 Grand Année has that signature brioche toastiness, penetrating flavors without being aggressive, and luxurious length. 94 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006