Boizel, Champagne (France) Brut Reserve NV

($50, Vinum Wine Importers and Distributors): Founded in 1834, this family firm is, as seems to be the tradition in Champagne, run currently by a woman, Evelyne Roques-Boizel. A Pinot Noir dominant (55%) blend, Boizel’s non-vintage bottling offers a ying/yang combination of earthy intensity and freshness. Inclusion of a healthy dose (20%) of reserve wines from previous vintages helps explain its length and class. 93 Michael Apstein Dec 11, 2012