Lilbert-Fils, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 2005

($96, Vintage ’59 Imports):  I don’t know how I have managed to overlook Lilbert’s Champagnes over the years.  I tasted their whole range at a tasting sponsored by the CIVC, the trade group that represents Champagne producers, that included hundreds of Champagnes from scores of producers.  Lilbert’s entire range was simply marvelous.  This 2005 Blanc de Blancs shows why that category of Champagne, made exclusively from Chardonnay, has the cachet and prestige it does.  Creamy and elegant, it has plenty of power and persistence, no doubt in part because the grapes come exclusively from Cramant, a grand cru village known for its great Chardonnay.  Each sip is a joy.  Just gorgeous! 95 Michael Apstein Nov 27, 2012