($70, Polaner): Gatinois, a family run firm located in the village of Äy, focuses on Pinot Noir-based Champagne because Äy is a Grand Cru village that is one of the top places for that varietal.  As such, all their Champagnes have the power associated with that grape.  Their 2006, made entirely from Pinot Noir, is intense, yet retains elegance and verve.  Long and forceful, it’s a great choice to carry to the table after sipping it as an aperitif. 92 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2013