Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut “La Grande Dame” 1998

($165, Moet Hennessy USA): More forward than the fabulous 1996 Grande Dame, this is one of the rare times I would recommend drinking Grande Dame upon release, instead of cellaring it for a few years.  Its opulence and softer-than-usual profile makes it ideal for enjoying now.  It still combines the hallmark power and grace that always characterizes Veuve Clicquot’s prestige bottling. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 25, 2007