($15): Tired of heavy, out of balance New World Chardonnay? Try this delicious wine, not lean and green as some East Coast whites can be, but lush without being overdone. Its bright acidity keeps it lively during a meal. A great value.… Read more
Category Archives: Reviews
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Shiraz 2002
($16, Hess Collection Imports): Peter Lehmann makes a range of excellent wines. This boisterous Barossa Valley wine delivers smoky, earthy elements in the nose that follow on the palate. Remarkable suppleness makes it easy to drink. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006… Read more
Peter Lehmann, Barossa Valley (Australia) Clancy’s Red Wine 2003
($16, Hess Collection Imports): An intriguing blend of about 40% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, Clancy’s Red Wine is perfect for those who prefer strong structure in their red wines. The blend works because the firmness of Cabernet supports the ripe fruit of the Shiraz and Merlot without dominating either.… Read more
Jacob’s Creek, South Australia (Australia) Shiraz Reserve 2002
($13, Pernod Ricard): Upfront ripe berry fruit, along with a touch of spice and mint, make this an engaging, easy to like Shiraz. It is full-bodied but remarkably harmonious for a wine touching 15 percent alcohol 88 Michael Apstein Jan 17, 2006… Read more
Montes, Apalta Valley (Colchagua, Chile) Syrah “Folly” 2003
($70, TGIC Importers): Made entirely from Syrah grown on the upper slopes of Montes’Apalta Valley Vineyard, this is an unabashedly big and extracted wine with flavors that emerge over time in the glass. Oak notes are apparent, but not overwhelming, and the ripe supple tannins provide structure that keeps you coming back for more.… Read more
Yarden, Galilee (Israel) Chardonnay Odem Vineyard 2002
($20): The wines that the Golan Heights Winery produces under their Yarden label just get better and better. This 2002 Chardonnay, from an organic vineyard, is certainly a member of the buttery school of Chardonnay. Rich and intense, it has enough balancing acidity because of the elevation of the vineyards in Galilee to hold it all together.… Read more
Dow’s, Douro Valley (Portugal) Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000
($20, Premium Port Wines): Another winner from this outstanding vintage, Dow’s rendition is mellow, sweet and refined, coupled with an engaging earthiness. A charming choice to sip slowly after dinner. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006… Read more
Fonseca, Douro Valley (Portugal) Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000
($22, Kobrand): Late Bottled Vintage Port 2000 ($22, Kobrand): Late Bottled Vintage Port or LBV, is a reasonable alternative to vintage Port. Bottled after five or six years of barrel aginginstead of two for vintage Portit needs no further aging upon release nor decanting since its sediment remains behind in the barrel.… Read more
Delamotte, Champagne (France) Blanc de Blancs Brut 1997
($74, Wilson Daniels, Ltd.): I suppose it is no surprise that Delamotte, a house located in Mesnil (perhaps the single best village in the Cotes des Blanc, the area of Champagne where Chardonnay reigns supreme) should make a stellar Blanc de Blancs.… Read more
Bollinger, Champagne (France) Brut “Grande Année” 1997
($110, Paterno): Bollinger’s vintage Champagne, Grande Année, is rapidly reaching tête du cuvée prices, but at least the quality is there. No longer the bargain of past years (but what is?) Bollinger continues to make stunning vintage Champagne. More forward than their superb 1996, the 1997 Grand Année has that signature brioche toastiness, penetrating flavors without being aggressive, and luxurious length.… Read more
Georges DuBoeuf, Beaujolais Nouveau (Burgundy, France) 2005
($11, WJ Deutsch): Full, fresh and fruity, just as Beaujolais Nouveau should be. The concentration and extract make this year’s version very appealing and, hopefully, bodes well for 2005 Burgundy in general. 86 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2006… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Savennières (Loire Valley, France) 2002
($20, Ex Cellars): Anyone who believes that Chenin Blanc makes only insipid dry wine has never tasted Baumard’s Savennières. The 2002 has a magical combination of honey-like ripeness (without being sweet) intertwined with an alluring minerality. A versatile wine with food, it is ideal with flavorful Asian fare.… Read more
Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume (Loire Valley, France) 2002
($60, Ex Cellars): A glorious wine, this is rich with ripe pear and honey flavors, but it also shows a captivating delicacy. The sweetness is balanced perfectly by focused acidity, providing a striking combination of richness and elegance. This is a must for your cellar.… Read more
Rancho Zabaco, California (United States) Zinfandel “Dancing Bull” 2003
($12): Even allowing for the fact that the Gallo empire can draw upon vast vineyard resources strewn across California, it still amazes me that they can pull together a Zin this fine for twelve bucks. This wine is actually more interesting and useful than many counterparts now selling for upwards of $20 in the current Zin-crazed era, and though its balanced, integrated profile won’t jerk you to attention like many other bottlings, it will win your admiration with its impressive combination of bold flavor and seamless integration.… Read more
Terrunyo, Cachapoal Valley (Chile) Carménère Peumo Vineyard Block 27 2002
($30, Banfi Vintners): This is an impressive Carménère released in Concha y Toro’s Terrunyo line. New World ripeness and suppleness are apparent, but the inherently earthy character of Carménère still shows, which makes for a succulent, layered wine. 92 Michael Apstein Dec 6, 2005… Read more
Veuve Clicquot, Champagne (France) Brut Rosé 1999
($80, Moët-Hennessy USA): The 1999 rendition of Cliquot’s rosé is more forward than usual, but the house has nonetheless continued its streak of excellent Rosés with this exotically flavored offering. The strawberry and other red fruit flavors from Pinot Noir leap from the glass but are balanced by firm acidity and even a hint of tannin.… Read more
Ktima Kir Yianni, Amyndeo (Greece) “Akakies” 2004
($14, Sotiris Bafitis Selections): Rosé season is about spent in my neck of the woods, but this wine is certainly not spent, and it is worth a search for those living in warm climates. Admirably dry and restrained, it features very tasty fruit with red cherries and a bright, almost citrus edge.… Read more
Archery Summit, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir Arcus Estate 2002
($75): Archery Summit, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir Arcus Estate 2002 ($75): Arcus Estate, a 40 acre vsite, is Archery Summit’s largest vineyard. The Willamette appellation was introduced in 2003, which explains why it’s labeled simply, “Oregon.” (The 2004 vintage will carry the Dundee Hills appellation.)… Read more
Susana Balbo, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec “BenMarco” 2003
($20, Vine Connections): A ripe wine (the grapes came from a warm part of Mendoza), this retains juicy acidity which prevents it from being heavy. The smoky, earthy flavors burst from the glass and put a smile on your face. 92 Michael Apstein Oct 25, 2005… Read more
Duval-Leroy, Champagne (France) Brut 1996
($50, Partner’s Wine Marketing): Most vintage Champagnes from this monumental year have disappeared from retailers’ shelves, but happily Duval-Leroy just released theirs. Disgorged in October 2004 after 7 years on the lees, it has gorgeous toasty/yeasty qualities, the creamy elegance of Chardonnay and a seemingly endless finish.… Read more
Laurent-Perrier, Champagne (France) Brut “Grand Siècle La Cuvée” NV
($85, Laurent-Perrier USA): Do not let the lack of a vintage date deter you from enjoying this fabulous tête de cuvée Champagne. Laurent-Perrier’s tradition is to blend their best wines exclusively from grand cru villages from the last three vintages to fashion this luxurious bottling.… Read more
Susana Balbo, Mendoza (Argentina) “Briosco” 2001
($45, Vine Connections): This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot is Susana Balbo’s flagship wine. Not a “fruit bomb,” this elegant, refined wine delivers alluring spice intermingled with smoky elements. Its long and classy finish shows that Argentina can produce very fine wine.… Read more
Katnook Estate, Coonawarra (Australia) Shiraz 2001
($22, Freixenet): Not your over-the-top Barossa Valley Shiraz, Katnook’s comes from cooler Coonawarra and shows plum and spice, intertwined with white pepper. It’s an elegantly styled Shiraz with great charm. 88 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2005… Read more
Sauvion et Fils, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie (Loire Valley, France) Château du Cléray 2003
($10, W.J. Deutsch & Sons): I’m not a fan of most 2003 white wines from Europe because the scorching summer robbed them of acidity. But it’s hard to kill the acid in the Melon de Bourgogne, the grape from which Muscadet is made.… Read more
Lucien Albrecht, Alsace (France) Riesling Grand Cru Pfingstberg 2001
($35, Pasternak): Albrecht’s regular Riesling is always quite good and well priced at about $15. This one, from the Grand Cru vineyard, Pfingstberg, is glorious. With lots of intensity and minerality, it delivers everything you’d expect from a grand cru vineyard.… Read more
Kumala, Western Cape (South Africa) Chardonnay 2004
($9, Vincor USA): With Kumala, the South Africans aim to compete with the Australian Yellow Tail and Little Penguin labels. And judging by this Chardonnay, the Aussies should watch out. This simple, but very good wine has subtle notes of pears, a whiff of creaminess, and delivers more than I expected for the price.… Read more
Budini, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec 2003
($11, Vine Connections): Here’s what I refer to as a “pizza wine,” an inexpensive, flavor-packed bottle that can hold up to pepperoni. It is a fresh, ripe Malbec that, thankfully, is neither overoaked nor over extracted. Budini is the name of an Argentine cat that can appear larger than it is by puffing its fur when threatened.… Read more
La Posta del Viñatero, Mendoza (Argentina) Malbec Angel Paulucci Vineyard 2004
($17, Vine Connections): Argentine wine producers rarely make a wine from a single vineyard because they fear any particular locale might be wiped out by an isolated hailstorm. This Malbec was worth the risk. Rich, without being heavy, it has unexpected complexity and polish.… Read more
Luca, Altos de Mendoza (Argentina) Syrah 2003
($30, Vine Connections): Laura Catena, daughter of Nicolas, who runs one of Argentina’s best wineries, aims to make small quantities of very high quality wines from particular sites. Although she started in 1997, her first commercial wine was from 1999 because rain effectively washed out the 1998 vintage for her.… Read more
Casa da Vila Verde, Vinho Verde (Portugal) 2003
($10, Signature): Casa de Vila Verde has overcome the problem that plagues all too many bottlings of Vinho Verde-cutting acidity without the ripe fruit flavors to balance it. The scorching heat of 2003 ripened grapes nicely in this northwestern part of Portugal, which explains the better fruit flavors-green apples-to complement that refreshing zing.… Read more
Nicolas Potel, Bourgogne (Burgundy, France) Maison Dieu 2002
($19, Frederick Wildman): Potel owns just one small, four-acre, vineyard called Maison Dieu between the towns of Beaune and Pommard, on the “wrong side of the tracks.” The wine doesn’t even qualify for a town name, but must be sold under Burgundy’s least prestigious appellation, Bourgogne.… Read more
Maison Drouhin, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002
($200, Dreyfus Ashby): A domaine bottling, this Bonnes Mares is staggeringly good, plush and balanced, with a seemingly endless finish. 96 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Louis Jadot, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002
($125, Kobrand): Always my favorite, Jadot’s Bonnes Mares, a domaine wine, is suave, long, layered, and luxurious. The tannins and structure are there, but unobtrusive, and bode well for development. 97 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Maison Drouhin, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002
($175, Dreyfus Ashby): Sometimes wines from Grand Cru vineyards are disappointing. Not this domaine bottling. It has a magical combination of power and elegance and the extra umph that should characterize a Grand Cru. 95 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Petit Chapelle 2002
($55, Kobrand): From purchased grapes, Jacques Lardière, Jadot’s exceptionally talented winemaker, has produced a very good, earthy, surprisingly big wine from a lesser known premier cru. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Maison Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2002
($25, Dreyfus Ashby): The Côte de Beaune appellation, less well known in the US than Côte de Beaune Villages, ranks between Beaune and the Beaune 1er Cru in stature, acording to Véronique Drouhin. Primarily made from wines from the young vines of Drouhin’s flagship property, Beaune Clos des Mouches, it has forward, pure ripe fruit flavors, little tannin, and good acid.… Read more
Maison Drouhin, Chorey lès Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2002
($25, Dreyfus Ashby): Wines from Chorey les Beaune, the only village in the Côte d’Or without a premier cru vineyard, offer great value when they are crafted by a talented producer like Drouhin. With pure fresh red fruit flavors, this one is uncomplicated and charming now.… Read more
Louis Jadot, Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru (Burgundy, France) 2002
($100, Kobrand): Also from purchased grapes, this Charmes Chambertin attests to the validity of the appellation contrôllée system. It has more of everything–complexity, length, and power–than the Petite Chapelle. 94 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Chambolle Musigny (Burgundy, France) 2002
($48, Louis Latour, Inc.): Here is a great village wine, fleshy and plump, with unexpected length. Delicious now. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Nicolas Potel, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Vignes Franches 2002
($36, Frederick Wildman): The pure cherry-like fruit is packaged here in Potel’s signature silky suaveness. Tightly wound at this stage, I expect it will blossom beautifully over the next five years. I also put this one in my cellar. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Bouchard Père & Fils, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Beaune du Châteaux 2002
($40, Clicquot, Inc.): This wine, which has been sold widely in France, made its first US appearance in 2002. A blend made exclusively from up to 16 of Bouchard’s 1er Cru vineyards in Beaune which are not bottled separately, such as Beaune Marconnets or Beaune Grèves, it’s a great buy.… Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Boucherottes 2002
($36, Kobrand): This more muscular wine, also from a family owned vineyard on the border with Pommard, has great color and concentration without being overdone. Exceptionally long, it’s even bigger, but not necessarily better, than the Theurons. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Theurons 2002
($36, Kobrand): A bottling from a vineyard owned by the heirs of the Jadot family–Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot–this is a concentrated wine, rather big for a Beaune, with great texture and length. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more
Maison Louis Latour, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Vignes Franches 2002
($46, Louis Latour, Inc.): Latour owns about a third–over 7 acres–in this prized vineyard from which he makes consistently excellent wine. The 2002 is glorious, concentrated and well structured. I would drink his Volnay En Chevrets while waiting for this one to evolve.… Read more
Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Clos des Ursules 2002
($48, Kobrand): Jadot’s flagship Beaune from a portion of the Vignes Franches vineyard, the Clos des Ursules is always a winner. The 2002 is no exception. With more structure than their other Beaune 1er Cru, it should turn out very well.… Read more