($19, The Sorting Table): Zind-Humbrecht is straying from French tradition by making wine from Chardonnay in Alsace.  A blend of one-third Auxerrois and two-thirds Chardonnay from the famed Clos Windsbuhl vineyard, this appealing wine carries no appellation—it’s labeled solely as a “vin de table”—because Chardonnay is not an allowed variety in Alsace.  But he may be on to something.  It’s certainly a far cry from a typical Chardonnay.  None of the four experienced tasters—myself included—who sampled this wine could identify the varietal composition.  It’s aromatic and fleshy, but certainly not oaky, with bright acidity and enlivening spice.  Very fresh and bone dry, it works well as an aperitif because it has sufficient body and with seafood at the table because the acidity balances the food. 89 Michael Apstein Feb 2, 2010