Realce, Manchuela (Spain) Bobal Crianza 2003

($10, Wine Associates, Inc.):  The Bobal grape is capable of producing fine wine if the vines natural proclivity for high yield is kept in check.  The winemaking team must have done that with this wine.  It’s pleasantly rustic with a nicely balanced array of black fruit, spice and herbal notes.  It has remarkably good acidity that keeps it lively, unusual for the vintage, which was notorious for producing ponderous wines throughout Europe. 88 Michael Apstein Mar 16, 2010