Category Archives: Reviews

Girardin, Chambolle-Musigny (Burgundy, France) Vieilles Vignes 2005

($52, Vineyard Brands): Girardin makes little or no wine from premier cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, opting to buy grapes from growers who own plots classified simply as Chambolle-Musigny, presumably because he feels they deliver better value.   I hate to classify a $50 wine as a ‘value wine,’ but considering Burgundy, especially in the 2005 vintage, it probably is. … Read more

Penfolds, South Australia (Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “Bin 707” 2004

($88, Foster’s Wine Estates): Penfolds’ Bin 707, their best Cabernet, excels in 2004.  The fruit comes from vineyards in Coonawarra and Barossa, including their famed Block 42, home to the world’s oldest Cabernet vines.  According to Peter Gago, Penfolds’ head winemaker, the Barossa provides particularly attractive Cabernet in cooler years like 2004. … Read more

Wynns, Coonawarra (South Australia, Australia) Cabernet Sauvignon “John Riddoch” 2004

($60, Foster’s Wine Estates): Wynns’ best Cabernet, the John Riddoch bottling is made entirely from fruit grown on their vineyards in the heart of Coonawarra.  It’s a barrel selection of their best Cabernet, according to Sue Hodder, Wynns’ senior winemaker.  She’s not looking for the biggest style wine when she selects barrels, and will eliminate those with hard tannins because she is looking for parcels that will make an elegant, polished kind of wine. … Read more

Wakefield, Clare Valley (South Australia, Australia) Riesling 2005

($17, Brown Forman): Wakefield has fashioned a vibrant, bone dry Riesling with long, limey flavors from grapes grown in South Australia’s Clare Valley, north of the Barossa.  Despite its northern locale, which should make it too hot (remember north equals heat Down Under) for a delicate variety like Riesling, the diurnal temperature variation in the Clare produces riveting, lively Rieslings. … Read more

Matua Valley Wines, Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc 2006

($12, Foster’s Wine Estates): With the soaring popularity of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, it is increasingly difficult to find good, let alone terrific, ones at this price.  So don’t miss this one.  Although New Zealand’s best and most vibrant Sauvignon Blancs come from the Marlborough region, located on the South Island, it was Matua who started it all when they planted Sauvignon Blanc in 1970 at their home base, just west of Auckland on the North Island. … Read more

Perrin et Fils, Rasteau (Rhône Valley, France) “L’Andeol” 2005

($19, Vineyard Brands): Rasteau is one of the 18 villages in the southern Rhone Valley that are capable of making more distinctive wine than the average for the region.  Hence, it and the other 17 carry the village name on the label–as well as the appellation, Côtes du Rhône Villages–as opposed to the more anonymous, ‘Côtes du Rhone’ designation.  … Read more

Clos Pegase, Carneros (Napa Valley, California) Pinot Noir Mitsuko’s Vineyard 2005

($33): Clos Pegase should be complimented for restraint with this stylish Pinot Noir.  With more and more Pinots tasting like Pinot Syrah, it’s encouraging to see producers strive for restrained elegance rather than over-ripe intensity.  Ripe raspberry-like fruitiness is the predominant impression, but black cherry nuances appear in the finish.… Read more

Altano, Douro (Portugal) 2004

($7, Vineyard Brands): For a couple of decades, Port producers have been investing time and money to produce dry red table (non-fortified) wines from grapes traditionally grown in the Douro Valley, home to Port production.  Their efforts are paying off.  This attractive blend of classic grapes used for Port (Tinto Roriz and Touriga Franca, 40 and 60%, respectively) has produced a succulent, yet spicy, balanced wine.… Read more

Craggy Range, Gimblett Gravels (Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand) Te Kahu Vineyard 2004

($25, Kobrand): Craggy Range emphasizes the uniqueness of place–like the French–and focuses their efforts on producing wines from individual (and presumably distinctive) vineyards.  They emphasize this philosophy with the labeling: the precise composition of the blend–in this case Merlot, 77%, Cabernet Sauvignon, 11%, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, 6% each–is found on the back label. … Read more

Perrin & Fils, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) Blanc “Les Sinards” 2005

($35, Vineyard Brands): With only about 5% of the area’s production devoted to white wine–and much of that heavy and unappealing–one sometimes wonders why anyone bothers with white Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  This wine is why.   A blend of 75% Grenache Blanc and 25% Clairette, it has the hint of apricot common in many whites from the southern Rhône, and good intensity, but without a trace of heaviness. … Read more

Marqués de Riscal, Rioja (Spain) Gran Reserva 1999

($37, Shaw-Ross International): One of the great things about Spanish wines is that many producers age them for years–sometimes even decades–before release so the consumer has an opportunity to taste the complexity bottle aging imparts.  This 1999 Gran Reserva, the current release, still has tannins of youth, but mature leather and coffee nuances peak out from under fresh dark fruit flavors. … Read more

Pascal Jolivet, Pouilly-Fumé (Loire Valley, France) 2005

($26, Wildman): Jolivet owns about 70 acres of vines split evenly between the neighboring wine regions, Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre, that face one another across the Loire Valley.  Made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc, his 2005 Pouilly-Fumé shows the minerality and verve of the region, and shines because the flavors are not distorted by barrel fermentation or aging. … Read more

Emiliana, Central Valley (Chile) Cabernet Sauvignon “Natura” 2005

($10, Banfi Imports): Emiliana, an affiliate of Concha y Toro, one of Chile’s best wineries, is making a name for itself with wines made from organically grown grapes bottled under the Natura label.  With over 3,500 acres in several of Chile’s prime grape growing regions — Maipo Valley, Casablanca and Colchagua — they must be one of the largest, if not the largest, growers of organic grapes in the world. … Read more