Laurel Glen Vineyards, Sonoma Mountain (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate 2013

($75): Laurel Glen, a true pioneering producer in Sonoma County, currently flies under most everyone’s radar.  Under Bettina Sichel’s leadership, that’s slowly changing. Planted in 1968 by Carmen Taylor, Chateau St. Jean purchased grapes for their famed Lauren Glen Cabernet in the 1970s.  Patrick Campbell purchased the property in 1977 and made some astounding Cabernets over the next several decades, but for some reason — perhaps they were not bold enough — consumers lost interest.  Enter Bettina Sichel, who purchased the property in 2011 and has long history in the California wine industry, including launching Quintessa in 1998.  You are drawn to the 2013 Estate Cabernet first by its alluring minty and floral aromas.  There’s a near magical combination of herbal savory notes intertwined with black fruit and mineral-y flavors.  Plush tannins complete the picture.  Not a massive wine, it keeps your attention with an herbal complexity and a silky texture.  My radar screen is flashing.
93 Michael Apstein Jun 27, 2017