M. Marengo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Bricco delle Viole” 2010

($60, Marc de Grazia Selection): I was unfamiliar with this producer until recently when I had the opportunity to taste a range of their wines at a tasting in Boston put on by their importer.  Now, I’ll buy anything they make.  This Barolo, from the Bricco delle Viole vineyard in La Morra, is closed and firm on initial taste, but explodes in the finish.  Though its grandeur is not immediately apparent, the tannins common to young Barolo are.  The wine forces you to contemplate it.  After a bit of time in the glass you appreciate the combination of floral elements and tarriness that makes Barolo so alluring.  And you wonder how a wine that’s so powerful is also so elegant.
94 Michael Apstein May 5, 2015