Fratelli Revello, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) “Gattera” 2010

($52, Marc de Grazia Selection): Similar to many other Barolo producers, Fratelli Revello made more than one Barolo in 2010, which creates a potentially confusing situation for consumers.  This one, Gattera, is from a single vineyard in La Morra and is aged in large old barrels.  A beautifully balanced wine, it demonstrates the grandeur of the 2010 vintage delivering a gorgeous balance of earthy savory notes with deep fruitiness.  It’s the epitome of power and elegance.  Substantial, but not aggressive, tannins and acidity provide appropriate structure to allow the flavors to develop with aging.  Don’t confuse it with their Barolo “Conca,” which they aged in barriques and has a different profile, with substantial seductive oaky flavors showing at this stage.
94 Michael Apstein May 5, 2015