($22): Let me jump to the bottom line: This is a great value Chardonnay. Racy and clean, this vigorous Chardonnay has the barest hint of alluring creaminess as well. Though not an opulent style of Chardonnay, it still has plenty of stuffing and terrific energy. … Read more
Category Archives: USA – California
Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Meredith Estate 2017
($68): Wow! It’s worth repeating, Wow! And I don’t mean that in terms of power, I mean that in terms of stature and finesse. Merry Edwards has always been one of my favorite producers, especially for Pinot Noir, but she has outdone herself with their 2017 Meredith Estate. … Read more
Ridge Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) “Lytton Springs” 2018
($44): Full disclosure: I am prejudiced against Zinfandel. So, perhaps my enthusiasm for this wine is helped by the absence of a varietal name on the label, but I don’t think so because I tasted it in a line-up of Zinfandels at a SommCon Virtual Summit. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Sonoma County (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2019
($20): Founded in 1972 by David Stare and still family-run, Dry Creek Vineyard continues to excel. Dry Creek Vineyard’s initial focus was on Sauvignon Blanc because Stare loved the wines of the Loire Valley. So, it’s not surprising that Dry Creek Vineyard continues to make a consistently fine Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Raeburn Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2019
($22): The focus of the 2019 Raeburn Pinot Noir is firmly on bright pure cherry-like fruit. Suavely textured, it is easy to enjoy this mid-weight wine now. A touch of heat and a hint of sweetness in the finish likely results from the 14.5 percent stated alcohol. … Read more
J. Lohr, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Signature” 2016
($90): An over-sized bottle with the wine weighing in at 15.1 percent stated alcohol accurately predicts the nature of this Cabernet Sauvignon: powerful. Fruit-forward and dominant, it’s a blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with small amounts of Merlot, Malbec, Carmenere and Saint-Macaire, an ancient grape from Bordeaux, which is no longer used there, but was included in the allowed mix for Meritage wines in California. … Read more
Black Stallion Estate Winery, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Limited Release 2017
($60): The packaging — over-sized bottle — and 15 percent stated alcohol suggests this Cabernet is from the “bigger is better” school. And there is no question, it’s a big, ripe wine with plenty of power. Yet, it’s not overblown or overdone. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2016
($80): Site matters. A skeptic of that statement just needs to taste this Pinot Noir made from grapes grown in a vineyard located in the windy Petaluma Gap of Sonoma next to the Gary Farrell Pinot Noirs from the Russian River Valley. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2016
($70): Santa Maria Valley’s east-west orientation is unusual in California where most of the valleys run north-south. Its orientation, which allows cooling Pacific Ocean breezes, explains its cooler climate despite its southern California location. The bright red fruit-like profile reflects the coolness of the site. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Toboni Vineyard 2016
($55): The warmth of the Russian River Valley compared to the Sonoma Coast or Santa Maria Valley accounts for riper raw material for this Pinot Noir, which is translated into a more robust wine. Similar to the one from Martaella Vineyard, it delivers power at the expense of subtlety. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Martaella Vineyard 2016
($65): Those who love a more robust style of Pinot Noir will embrace the Martaella Vineyard bottling from Gary Farrell, in relation to the rest of this producer’s lineup. The focus here is on the ripe, plum-like fruitiness. As with all of Farrell’s Pinot Noirs, the tannins are fine and the textured refined, which makes it easy to enjoy now. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Hallberg Vineyard 2016
($55): This wine presents a fascinating comparison with the Farrell’s Dijon Clones Pinot Noir from the same vineyard. The winemaker says it’s a blend of five clones of Pinot Noir instead of two Dijon clones. It has the same power as the Dijon Clones bottling, but reveals less complexity at this stage. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Hallberg Vineyard Dijon Clones 2016
($60): The warmer Russian River Valley compared to Farrell’s Fort Ross bottling explains the riper style of this Pinot Noir. Black fruit flavors mingle with savory earthy components in this juicy, bright, and long wine. Though slightly bigger and bolder than their Fort Ross Pinot Noir, it remains impeccably balanced. … Read more
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Fort Ross – Seaview (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Fort Ross Vineyard 2016
($75): The Fort Ross Vineyard is a cold site, lying less than a mile from the Pacific Ocean and roughly 1,500 feet above sea level. The temperature rarely exceeds 85º, all of which explains the wine’s profile: a fabulous combination of beguiling fruitiness and smokey savory nuances. … Read more
Site Trumps Everything
Sosie Wines, Sonoma County (California) Brut Nature “First Things First” 2018
($30): To borrow Sosie’s phrase, first things first: people will either love or hate this well-made sparkling wine because it’s different. Composed entirely of Roussanne, a white grape indigenous to France’s Rhône Valley, it conveys stone fruit — think nectarine-like — flavors. … Read more
A Winery in…L.A.?
California red wine selling for $150+ a bottle is not a rarity anymore. But who’s heard of a Los Angeles winery selling one for that price? For that matter, who’s heard of Los Angeles wineries at all? If you haven’t, you’re not alone. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Old Vine Zinfandel 2017
($35): Full disclosure, Zinfandel is one of my least favorite wines. Petit Sirah runs a close second because both usually are impossibly overdone wines. So, I shuddered when I read the blend: Zinfandel (76%), Petit Sirah (22%) and Carignane. But that’s why you taste. … Read more
Frog’s Leap Winery, Rutherford, Napa Valley (California) Merlot 2017
($40): This Merlot shows why it’s such a popular kind of wine. Silky tannins enrobe plummy-like fruitiness and make this wine a delight to drink now. In the Frog’s Leap style, it shows restraint, impressing you with elegance and suaveness rather than weight and power. … Read more
Frog’s Leap Winery, Rutherford, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 2017
($65): John Williams, owner and winemaker at Frog’s Leap, has a knack for whimsy. It’s apparent from his website, from his tagline, “time’s fun when you’re having flies,” to the fine print at the very end of the back label —”open other end.” … Read more
Frog’s Leap Winery, Napa Valley (California) Zinfandel 2018
($35): Here’s a Zinfandel for those of us who generally avoid that wine. Frog’s Leap signature style of restraint highlights the charms of the varietal. Briary and spicy notes complement its dark fruitiness. Bursting with flavor, yet not overdone, it’s balanced. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) “The Mariner” 2017
($50): Dry Creek Vineyard, founded by David Stare in 1972, has been a leader in the Dry Creek Valley wine renaissance. Stare started by focusing on Sauvignon Blanc because of his love of Loire Valley wines, but quickly expanded the portfolio. … Read more
Ron Rubin Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2017
($25): Consumers should be pleased with this well-priced Pinot Noir because it has more complexity than you’d expect at the price. It’s ripe and supple, but unlike many Pinot Noir at this price, it has some earthy, savory nuances. It’s not just sweet cherry juice. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Old Vine Zinfandel 2017
($35): Full disclosure, Zinfandel is one of my least favorite wines. Petit Sirah runs a close second because both usually are impossibly overdone wines. So, I shuddered when I read the blend: Zinfandel (76%), Petit Sirah (22%) and Carignane. But that’s why you taste. … Read more
Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2019
($20): The inclusion of Sauvignon Gris, a faintly colored mutation of Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Musqué, which some believe is a biotype of Sauvignon Blanc, helps explain this wine’s appealing fleshy texture. (Sauvignon Musqué and Sauvignon Blanc have identical DNA and therefore are the same grape, according to Jancis Robinson et al’s Wine Grapes.) … Read more
Jordan Vineyard & Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($58): Jordan made the difficult decision several years ago to abandon their longstanding and original concept of an estate wine, that is, one made entirely from their own grapes. They made the honest assessment that their grapes were not always the best ones that were available. … Read more
Siduri Wines, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2018
($30): The grapes for this multi-vineyard bottling come primarily from the Sta. Rita Valley, whose east-west orientation is rare in California where most of the valleys run north-south. Sta. Rita’s orientation allows cool Pacific Ocean influences to reduce temperatures, especially close to the coast, making it an ideal locale for growing Pinot Noir, a grape that prefers lower temperatures to higher ones. … Read more
Siduri Wines, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2018
($40): Siduri, known for their single-vineyard bottlings of Pinot Noir has expanded their portfolio to include ones from a variety of vineyards. In this case, the grapes come from throughout the Russian River Valley. Compared to its Willamette Valley bottling, their Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is broader and riper, with dark fruit flavors. … Read more
Qupé, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Y Block 2018
($22): Qupé, established in 1982, has always focused on wines made from varieties usually associated with France’s Rhône Valley — Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Marsanne and Roussanne. So where did this fabulous Chardonnay come from. The Chardonnay came from the famed Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley, primarily from the Y Block, which was planted exclusively for Qupé in 2005, according to their website. … Read more
Mettler Family Vineyards, Lodi (California) Albarino 2019
($20): American consumers have embraced Albariño, the most important white grape in Spain’s Galicia region, because of the energetic and spicy wines made from it. And now, with roughly 450 acres of it, almost a one-third of which was planted in the last three years, the grape — and wine — is making inroads into California vineyards. … Read more
Laetitia Vineyard & Winery, Arroyo Grande Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Estate 2018
($27): It’s rare to see a Pinot Noir of this stature for less than $30 a bottle. The grapes for this fruit-forward Pinot Noir come entirely from Laetitia’s vineyards, which means they control all of the farming, and, importantly, the timing of the harvest. … Read more
Sebastiani, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
($40): The world needs more renditions of Cabernet Sauvignon like this one — specifically, well-priced and well proportioned. It delivers ripe, but not over-ripe fruit flavors, and a wisp of vanilla-kissed oak. But savory and “not just fruit” accents peek through, creating balance and saving it from being fruit-heavy. … Read more
River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Stephanie’s Cuvée” 2017
($30): With raspberry-like nuances, this fruit-forward Pinot Noir has moderate weight and suave tannins. Lively acidity keeps it fresh. The 14.3 percent stated alcohol, noticeable by a slightly hot finish, adds a pleasing roundness to the wine. Thankfully, not being a bombastic wine, it would go nicely with grilled salmon.… Read more
River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2018
($25): Here is a polished Cabernet Sauvignon that displays black fruit enrobed in suave tannins. Despite plenty of dark fruit flavors, it’s not overweight as evidenced by its modest — by today’s standards — 13.9 percent stated alcohol. Its creamy texture and kiss of vanilla-like notes allows for immediate enjoyment.… Read more
Dutton-Goldfield, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch, Walker Hill Vineyard 2017
($50): The contrasting Chardonnay under the Dutton-Goldfield label displays the same balance and suaveness as its brother from the Rued Vineyard. Instead of citrus notes, subtle toasty and nutty ones caress the palate. Still, great enlivening acidity keeps it fresh throughout the meal. … Read more
Dutton-Goldfield, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Rued Vineyard 2017
($55): Warren Dutton, the renowned Sonoma County grape-growing farmer who tragically died in 2001, planted this Chardonnay in this vineyard in the late 1960s. Steve Dutton, his son, is now responsible for the farming, while Dan Goldfield takes care of the winemaking. … Read more
Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2017
($32): Sequoia Grove is an “old-timer” in terms of Napa Valley wineries, having been founded 40 years ago, in 1979. Their 2017 Napa Valley Chardonnay delivers richness, opulence and a healthy dose of oakiness. Good acidity keeps it fresh. Those looking for subtlety in their Chardonnay should look elsewhere, but those who embrace sumptuousness in their Chardonnay will love it.… Read more
Shooting Star, Lake County (California) Barbera 2017
($15): Barbera is a workhorse grape from Piedmont that has been grown in California for at least a century. Unlike Piedmont versions, which often have a briary character with invigorating acidity, this one delivers juicy red fruit flavors and finishes slightly sweet. … Read more
Steele Stymie, Lake County (California) Merlot Founder’s Reserve, Limited Production 2016
($42): Jed Steele, who has made wine in California for almost 50 years, is no stranger to the endeavor. He has purchased fruit from Stymie Vineyard for 15 years before buying it in 2005. A big wine, it is not overblown (though the bottle is). … Read more
Dutton-Goldfield, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Rued Vineyard 2017
($55): Warren Dutton, the renowned Sonoma County grape-growing farmer who tragically died in 2001, planted this Chardonnay in this vineyard in the late 1960s. Steve Dutton, his son, is now responsible for the farming, while Dan Goldfield takes care of the winemaking. … Read more
Dutton-Goldfield, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch, Walker Hill Vineyard 2017
($50): The contrasting Chardonnay under the Dutton-Goldfield label displays the same balance and suaveness as its brother from the Rued Vineyard. Instead of citrus notes, subtle toasty and nutty ones caress the palate. Still, great enlivening acidity keeps it fresh throughout the meal. … Read more
Piper Sonoma, Sonoma County (California) Blanc de Blancs NV
($22): Piper Sonoma, a subsidiary of Piper Heidsieck, the French Champagne company, has been producing sparkling wines in California since 1980. Their wines have taken a quantum leap in quality recently. Take this Blanc de Blancs for example. Made primarily from Chardonnay (75%), with Pinot Blanc rounding out the blend, it is focused, with touches of green apple-like flavors.… Read more
Scharffenberger Cellars, Mendocino County (California) “Brut Excellence” NV
($20): Scharffenberger Cellars was, and now is again, judging from this wine, a leader in California sparkling wine. Founded in 1981, at a time when the subsidiaries of French Champagne companies were establishing outposts in California, Scharffenberger showed that domestically-owned producers could make top-flight sparkling wines. … Read more
Matanzas Creek Winery, Sonoma County (California) Chardonnay “Journey” 2016
($65): Big bottle. Big price tag. Big wine. Despite the all-around size, it is wonderfully balanced and nuanced, combining richness and verve. Matanzas Creek, which has been an iconic source in Sonoma County since 1977, notes on its website that they’ve built its reputation on Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot, which is true. … Read more
Rodney Strong Vineyards, Chalk Hill (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2016
($22): This is a remarkable Chardonnay. It’s rare to find a balanced Chardonnay at this price. Frequently, they’re too fruity or too oaky. This one strikes balance. It’s fruity, but not overdone, with a touch of creamy toasty oak, which, again, is not overdone. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard 2017
($50): Similar to Tongue Dancer’s 2017 Pinot Noir, their Chardonnay packs plenty of flavor. Thankfully, despite its weight and intensity, the winemaking team maintained balance with invigorating acidity that keeps the wine fresh and lively. It is lush with hints of tropical fruit-like flavors. … Read more
Tongue Dancer, Sonoma Coast (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Putnam Vineyard “Pinot de Ville” 2017
($65): The over-weight bottle prejudiced against this wine, but that assessment disappeared with the first sip. Yes, it’s a big Pinot Noir, with savory exuberance intertwined with deep fruit flavors. Still, it does not fall into the Pinot Syrah — overdone category. … Read more
Steele, Lake County (North Coast, California) Cabernet Franc 2017
($20): Jed Steele has been a luminary in the California wine industry. He started his career 50 years ago in 1968 at Stoney Hill winery in Napa. His eponymous winery in Lake County marks its 25th anniversary with the 2017 vintage. … Read more
Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley (Mendocino County, California) Brut NV
($24): Although I’ve not sampled every sparkling wine from California, Roederer Estate’s is my favorite. Part of the reason their wines are so good is, of course, the talent of Roederer, the French Champagne producer that owns it. But another important reason for their quality is that all of the grapes for their sparkling wines come from their vineyards, which means they have total control over the entire process from vineyard to winemaking to aging. … Read more
Raeburn Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2017
($20): Those who maintain that California Chardonnay has moved away from the rich buttery style to a more elegant, refined approach will find support for that generality with this wine. Lemony tones in the finish keeps it fresh, while delicate creamy notes remind why Chardonnay that has seen a judicious use of oak is so popular. … Read more