($18): Bonny Doon has captured the enchanting essence of Albariño — a bracing grapefruit rind bitterness and citrus zing balanced by ripeness without heaviness.  A hint of creaminess adds an unusual — for Albariño — luxuriousness.  It’s a masterful balance of ying and yang.… Read more

($16): J, known best for their stellar sparkling wines, have made Pinot Gris since 1996.  Indeed, they have three bottlings — this one, one from Russian River Valley grapes and a single vineyard one.  They’ve pretty much nailed this variety.  The “California” bottling has subtle peach-like nuances, bright acidity, and an appealing hint of bitterness in the finish. … Read more

($91): At $91 a bottle, the price gets your attention, even though it’s not California’s most expensive Chardonnay (Marcassin Estate takes that honor).  But after tasting the 2011 Grgich Hills Estate Paris Tasting Chardonnay, it’s the wine, not the price, you remember. … Read more

($23): Roederer Estate consistently produces one of this country’s best, if not the best, sparkling wine.  It’s easy to understand why they regularly make such high quality sparkling wine.  First, they are a subsidiary of Champagne Roederer, one of France’s leading Champagne producers. … Read more

($22):  Santa Maria Valley is one of the many coastal valleys in California that runs east to west, which means that cooling winds from the Pacific Ocean moderate the temperature and make it an ideal site for grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, that thrive in “cooler” weather.… Read more

($37):  Let’s hope more California wineries follow the style of Presqu’ile’s 2011 Chardonnay.   This restrained wine displays a gorgeous combination of richness and energy.  Its subtle richness becomes increasingly apparent with each sip–it sneaks up on you as opposed to hitting you over the head. … Read more

($20): Randall Grahm, proprietor of Bonny Doon, is a winemaker who sets his own course and follows it.  Far before lower alcohol wines became the new mantra of California (let’s hope that’s not going to be a passing fad) Grahm was making well-proportioned flavorful wines. … Read more

($26): This is a ripe, full-bodied and wonderfully balanced expression of Syrah, focusing more of the black fruitiness of that variety rather than its peppery profile.  Still, it’s not just fruit.  Earthy nuances provide complexity.  A glorious silky texture makes it easy to enjoy now with robust fare.… Read more

($35): Since the 1940s when Louis M. Martini planted Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on the Stanly Ranch in Carneros, California growers have been enthralled by those varieties in that locale.  Indeed, Carneros is the only AVA to be defined by geographic parameters instead of political ones. … Read more

($45): Merry Edwards consistently produces a stunning array of Pinot Noir and 2011 was no exception.  This one, a blend from vineyards within the Russian River Valley, is the most straightforward and most immediately appealing.  Hints of sweet oak are still apparent but marry well with savory notes. … Read more

($54): Merry Edwards has a reputation for bottling Pinot Noir from several individual vineyards within the Russian River Valley.  Tasting them side-by-side validates her judgment that the wines are different and deserve their separate designations.  These single vineyard wines reflect inherent differences in the vineyards (aka terroir) and bottling them separately has great merit because it shows the wonderful diversity of the Russian River Valley. … Read more

($57): Merry Edwards’ Meredith Estate Pinot Noir has a lot in common with the Klopp Ranch bottling in that it’s weighty but not heavy and has Merry Edwards’ signature, a plush texture.  But worthy of a single vineyard bottling, it’s distinctive. … Read more

($57): Merry Edwards’ Klopp Ranch bottling of Pinot Noir is wonderfully different from her other single vineyard wines.  It’s denser still, with more concentrated black fruit flavors, yet still avoids being heavy because of lip-smacking acidity.  At this stage, there’s a smattering of savory notes that emerges with time in the glass. … Read more

($95): It’s hard to remember, but as recently as 1978, just two years after Dan and Margaret Duckhorn founded their eponymous winery, Merlot was rarely bottled in California as a varietal wine.  The grape was used primarily for blending — to “soften” Cabernet Sauvignon. … Read more

($28): Sequoia Grove has successfully walked a fine line by producing this restrained, but not eviscerated, Chardonnay.  Indeed, the hint of creaminess becomes more even engaging because it doesn’t fight heavier, more obvious flavors.  Enlivening acidity in the finish keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. … Read more

($30): Carneros, the cool region at the southern end of both the Napa and Sonoma Valleys, is well recognized as a great place for Chardonnay, a variety that likes cooler climate.  Rob Mondavi, Jr., the winemaker and grandson of legendary Robert Mondavi, says he purchases grapes from growers in the Sonoma Valley portion of Carneros and blends them with their estate grapes from the Napa Valley portion of Carneros because the Sonoma grapes add a different dimension. … Read more

($55): Migration is one of Duckhorn’s outposts in Northern California for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Dan and Margaret Duckhorn knew, perhaps ahead of their time, that Napa Valley, their home, was great for certain grapes, but a less ideal place for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which excel in cooler climates, such as Sonoma Coast. … Read more

($29): Duckhorn has always focused on Merlot.  And their Merlots are terrific.  But Duckhorn is not a one-trick pony, as this Sauvignon Blanc shows.  Beautifully balanced, it combines richness and edginess.  A touch of Semillon — anywhere from 15 to 20 percent — is included in the blend, which provides lushness without obliterating the pleasant and uplifting bite of Sauvignon.… Read more

($25): Finding authentic Pinot Noir at this price is a treat.  All too often they are just sweet and fruity.  Decoy’s — they do love to fool you — has modest and restrained fruitiness that allows the herbal, slightly savory, element that makes Pinot Noir so engaging.… Read more

($25): If anyone in California can make authentic Merlot, it should be Duckhorn Vineyards who focused on that varietal well before it became a household word.  They make a marvelous one under their Decoy label.  This 2012 is fleshy and ripe, with a lovely slightly bitter cherry note in the finish. … Read more

($63): Though Duckhorn has focused on Merlot since their inception, their Cabernets demonstrate that the winery is hardly a one-trick pony.  This classic Napa Valley Cabernet is firm without being aggressive.  Deeply flavored, it’s not over the top, but well-balanced delivering a mélange of black fruit flavors and herbal, savory — almost black olive type — notes. … Read more

($54): Duckhorn made a name for itself with Merlot and continues to excel with that grape variety.  Their 2011 Napa Valley bottling, made from a combination of their and purchased grapes, has real character, which puts it out of the “I’ll have a glass of Merlot before dinner” category. … Read more

($25): Decoy is Duckhorn’s little sister winery that focuses on wines that are meant to be consumed immediately after release.  And this supple mid-weight wine is just that.  But like a decoy, it fools you.  Though you might think that a wine labeled “Red Wine” would be a non-descript commodity, this is far from that, offering good structure that balances its engaging fruitiness. … Read more

($80): Goldeneye is Duckhorn Vineyard’s winery and estate in Anderson Valley that Dan and Margaret Duckhorn established in 1996.  Duckhorn realized that if they wanted to make top notch Pinot Noir they needed to look elsewhere from their northern Napa Valley base, which was far too warm for that grape. … Read more

($115): Confusingly, the Ten Degrees Vineyard bottling does not come from a single vineyard, but rather is a blend of Goldeneye’s best lots from their four Anderson Valley vineyards, making it more like a “Reserve” bottling than an expression of a single discreet place. … Read more

($45): Creamy and seductive, this stylish Chardonnay will convince anyone that the Russian River Valley can produce wonderful Chardonnay.  Of course, Paul Hobbs, one of California’s star winemakers, had something to do with it.  Intense without being overt or overdone, the combination of subtle fruitiness and minerality, caresses the palate. … Read more

($22): Roederer Estate is certainly one of California’s best sparkling wineries.  Part of the reason for its success is that their grapes come entirely from their vineyards, a rarity among Champagne or sparkling wine producers.  Their non-vintage brut delivers a lovely creamy fruitiness without being soft or sweet. … Read more

($28): MacMurray Ranch’s Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley offers up more herbal and spice elements, giving it more layers, compared to their Central Coast offering.  Still the core delivers lush plum-like flavors. The combination of plush tannins and ripeness contributes to a subtle sweetness in the finish.… Read more

($17): William Hill manages to combine cassis-like flavors with undertones of black olive-like note in this nicely balanced Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine.  The tannins are fine and not intrusive, yet add just the right amount of structure.  This bargain-priced wine is a perfect choice with lamb chops tonight.… Read more

($23): Though there’s a whiff of non-fruit notes in the nose, the focus here is clearly on ripe red/back fruit flavors.  The wine’s plush texture makes it easy to sip before dinner.  It’s a softer, fruit-forward, style of Pinot Noir that finishes slightly sweet because of its ripeness.… Read more

($60): Jake Fetzer, who along with his brother, Ben, run Masút Vineyard and Winery, explains that each year they select a wine from one of the blocks in their estate vineyard that they think has done very well and bottle a portion of it separately. … Read more

($40): Jacob and Ben Fetzer have their work cut for them.  As grandchildren of the famed Barney Fetzer, who founded Fetzer Winery and put Mendocino County on the world’s wine map, they have big shoes to fill.  Judging by this Pinot Noir, they are up to the challenge and will succeed. … Read more

($45): Practically a single vineyard wine — the two vineyards that provide fruit are less that 250 yards apart in the Rutherford Bench and are composed of the same gravelly loam soil — this bottling speaks with precision and focus.  It delivers ripe, but not jammy, black fruit enrobed in silky tannins. … Read more

($50): You’d expect that J Vineyards, one of California leading sparkling wine producers, would know about Pinot Noir since they use that grape in their bubbly.  And judging from Misterra, a blend of Pinot Noir (90%), Pinot Meunier and Pinotage, they do. … Read more

($60): Laurel Glen Vineyard, one of California’s great producers of Cabernet Sauvignon, seems to fly under the radar for reasons I don’t understand. Except for a tiny amount of rosé, Laurel Glen makes only Cabernet Sauvignon — and superb Cabernet at that — and they sell them at reasonable prices. … Read more

($35): This lush Cabernet has plenty of concentration, a whiff of vanilla from oak aging and mild tannins, making it lovely for current consumption.  Herbal notes add complexity.  Its depth and polish make it a good choice for a steak this winter.… Read more

($30): Patrick Campbell, who founded Laurel Glen Vineyard, one of Sonoma’s iconic wineries, in 1977, sold it to Bettina Sichel in 2011, who brought in David Ramey as consulting winemaker.  Their 2011 Counterpoint, their second label, is a great success.  Made for earlier drinking compared to their first label, it delivers a seamless combination of dark fruit, with glimmers of black olives and spice. … Read more

($30): I’ve always considered Grgich Hills Estate one of California’s top producers.  I expect their wines to be distinctive.  Despite their fantastic track record, successive bottlings continue to thrill.  Take this 2012 Sauvignon Blanc.  It’s fabulous — creamy, mineraly, with just the perfect hint of pungency. … Read more

($50): As impressive as Grgich’s Fumé Blanc-labeled Sauvignon Blanc is, this one, labeled Essence, a selection of their best lots, is even better.  What’s amazing is that Grgich has amplified all the components of their regular (though it’s not at all a “regular” wine) Sauvignon Blanc bottling while maintaining its impeccable balance.  … Read more

($20): St. Supéry has fashioned a bright and zippy Sauvignon Blanc that has enough creaminess and body to offset the inherent pungency that grape delivers.  This nicely balanced wine would be a good choice for sushi.
89 Michael Apstein Jan 21, 2014… Read more

($23): It’s a pleasure to find a California Pinot Blanc that strikes the right balance.  There can be a temptation to beef up this delicate wine either by using super ripe grapes or overwhelming it with barrel aging.  Valley of the Moon has avoided both. … Read more

($75): The Foley Johnson interpretation of Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon focuses more on fruit than on earthy notes.  Ripe sweet red, almost strawberry-like, fruit buttressed by fine suave tannins makes it easy to love.  There’s a lovely purity and focus in this wine that makes it very appealing for current consumption.… Read more

($72): The Rutherford section of Napa Valley is rightly known to be an ideal place for Cabernet Sauvignon.  The line-up of wines from the Rutherford Dust Society — a group of producers who make wines from Rutherford grown fruit — shows the uniqueness of the region. … Read more

($135): Combine a great producer, Agustin Huneeus and his team, with a great place, Rutherford, and bingo — you get great wine.  The 2010 Quintessa delivers a little bit of everything — fruit, herbs, earth, minerals — and not too much of anything. … Read more

($35): Though best known for their stellar Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, Grgich makes a stylish and dare I say, refined, Zinfandel.  It has plenty of up-front fruit and briary spice, as befitting a Zinfandel.  But what sets it apart is its lack of flamboyance. … Read more

($60): If anyone needed additional proof (I don’t) that Grgich Hills is a brilliant producer — one of California’s best — they should try this Petite Sirah.  It’s a category I try to avoid judging at wine competitions because most Petite Sirah are massive and ponderous, lacking finesse and complexity I value and look for. … Read more

($28): Though their wines are consistently among the best in Napa Valley, Clos du Val is not — and never was — a “cult” winery.  All their wines have the same grace and balance of this Chardonnay.  It’s toasty and rich without being oaky or obnoxious. … Read more

($38): Judy Jordan founded J Vineyards and Winery in 1986 and has been making stunning sparkling wines every since.  Its grapefruit-tinged nuances impart a pleasantly cutting edginess.  This fresh and floral style of rosé works well as an invigorating aperitif or as an accompaniment to smoked salmon or scallops in a decadent cream sauce.… Read more

($32): I’ve had so many excellent vintages of Merry Edwards’ Sauvignon Blanc that I should no longer be surprised.  But I am because I still associate her with stellar Pinot Noir and only few producers anywhere in the world show their talents with both grapes. … Read more

($25):  Laetitia could be considered a pioneer in Arroyo Grande Valley having planted their vineyards over 30 years ago.  They make a line of distinctive vineyard-specific Pinot Noir.  This one, a blend from their vineyards, delivers a whiff of herbal elements that adds great interest to this otherwise classic fruit-focused California Pinot Noir. … Read more