Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Angel Wing” 2011

($90): A tribute to her son, Warren, who died in 2006, this is a monumental Pinot Noir, in the best sense of the word.  One whiff predicts its grandeur.  What follows is a glorious explosion of flavors — smoky, fruity, earthy — that flow seamlessly one into another. A hefty wine, its silky, velvety texture reinforces its overall gracefulness.  Unlike red Burgundy, which I characterize as “flavor without weight,” Merry Edwards’ Angel Wing definitely has weight, but it’s not in what I call the “Pinot Syrah” category.  Fresh and clean, its brightness makes it a joy to drink now.  It’s a worthy tribute.
96 Michael Apstein Mar 3, 2015