Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Georganne Vineyard 2012

($57): One of the reasons I admire Merry Edwards is because she makes Pinot Noir that reflect their origins — she is not trying to make red Burgundy.  To be sure, she understands the subtlety and delicacy of Pinot Noir but also knows that grape expresses itself differently in the Russian River Valley than in the Côte d’Or.  There’s no better proof of that than to taste through her single vineyard bottlings.  Year after year — and 2012s are no different — they reflect true differences in site and are not a marketing gimmick.  The 2012 Georganne takes the bright fruitiness found in her Sonoma Coast bottling and adds a savory meaty quality that complements dark black fruit flavors.  Glossy and long, it has the ripeness you’d expect from a California wine without eviscerating the delicacy of Pinot Noir.
93 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2015