($66, Henriot): Clos de la Mousse, a premier cru vineyard, lies smack in the middle of Beaune.  Bouchard owns all of this 8.5-acre vineyard, a rarity in Burgundy where most of the vineyards are split among multiple owners.  Very aromatic, this moderate weight wine has captivating cherry-like flavors and good length. … Read more

($129, Kobrand): This is a Grand Cru wine in all respects except the label.  The story goes that when the locals were classifying the vineyards in the 1930s as either Grand or Premier Cru, the Clos St. Jacques was set to be included as a Grand Cru. … Read more

($88, Vineyard Brands): Girardin’s style favors the forward fruity side of Burgundy rather than the earthy leafy side.  Impressive, almost flamboyant aromas, precede the packed, ripe flavors–from fruit, not oak–that are the predominant features of this silky wine.  Nicely balanced, it shows the ripeness of the vintage without going overboard.… Read more

($216, Wilson Daniels): Faiveley owns about 7.5 acres of the Grand Cru vineyard, Le Corton, near the summit of the Corton hill just below the protective shield of trees.  It’s almost always their best wine and at tastings is invariably served after the more powerful ones from the Côte de Nuits. … Read more

($85, Wilson Daniels): This outstanding wine from Beaune has exceptional length and finesse.  Fine tannins harmonize with bright, ripe, penetrating fruit and earth flavors.  The layers of flavor convey depth, but there’s no heaviness here. 94 Michael Apstein Dec 4, 2007… Read more

($27, Domaines et Saveurs Collection): A potential drawback to some white Burgundies from 2005 is a lack of uplifting acidity.  That’s not a problem with this wine because the village of Auxey-Duresses lies in a cool microclimate that prevented the warmth of 2005, responsible for the great concentration and intensity, from sapping this wine’s acidity. … Read more

($100): The demand for the marvelous 2005 vintage in red Burgundy has pushed all the prices higher.  You may shudder at the price–after all, this is premier, not grand, cru–but you’ll smile after you taste the wine.  Gallois’ Combe Aux Moines delivers those classic Gevrey-Chambertin earthy, woodsy touches mixed with a hint of smoke and plenty of black fruit. … Read more

($110, Domaines et Saveurs Collection): Domaine Lamarche is probably best  known for being the sole owner of a small Grand Cru in Vosne-Romanée, La Grand Rue, a vineyard that lies between La Tâche and Romanée-Conti.  But the Domaine makes an extraordinary range of other wines, including the Grand Cru, Echezeaux. … Read more

($95, Vineyard Brands): The Mongeard-Mugneret style values finesse over power so it’s not a surprise that this grand cru grabs your attention with elegance, complexity and length rather than sheer intensity.  A hint of exotic mushroom-like nuances intermingled with fresh red fruit makes it the epitome of great Burgundy, incredible flavor without heaviness.… Read more

($140): The promise of this young wine is most apparent in its nose and the extraordinary finish.  Prominent aromas of oak are balanced by plenty of fruit and the combination is hard to resist.  Tightly wound at this early stage of its life, strawberry and other red fruit-like flavors sneak out from the tannins and oak. … Read more

($52, Vineyard Brands): Girardin makes little or no wine from premier cru vineyards in the Côte de Nuits, opting to buy grapes from growers who own plots classified simply as Chambolle-Musigny, presumably because he feels they deliver better value.   I hate to classify a $50 wine as a ‘value wine,’ but considering Burgundy, especially in the 2005 vintage, it probably is. … Read more

($60, Vineyard Brands): Although not from a premier cru vineyard, this wine has all the style and class of one.  The aromatics predict a lovely wine and in this case, the nose does not lie.  Supple silky tannins surround a lush mixture of ripe black and red fruit flavors. … Read more

($24, Vineyard Brands): In really great years, such as 2005, the wines from the lowliest appellations, such as this Bourgogne Rouge, are particularly attractive.  Girardin has managed to craft a wine with New World intensity while retaining the earthy character of Burgundy. … Read more

($52, Vineyard Brands): Red wine grown in Blagny, a village that straddles Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, is sold as Blagny, whereas the whites (made from Chardonnay) are sold under the name Meursault-Blagny.  Matrot is the largest grower of Blagny and, in a way, it is the flagship wine. … Read more

($70, Louis Latour, Inc): Corton Grancey is Latour’s flagship red wine made from their grapes grown in various Grand Cru vineyards on the Corton hill. The 1999 Corton Grancey is a stunning wine. Moreover, at seven years of age, it is delicious now.… Read more

($75, Paterno Wines International): Over the last decade, Chanson, one of the great names in Burgundy, has failed to deliver wines commensurate with the stature of its vineyards, especially since it owns tremendous sites-parts of ten 1er cru vineyards-in Beaune. That situation appears to be changing.… Read more

($22, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.): This stylish wine, from a village just north of Beaune, delivers quintessential Burgundian character at a reasonable-for Burgundy-price. Remarkably long, with the hint of earthiness that screams ‘Burgundy,’ it reminds us that good producers, such as Drouhin, make satisfying wines even in what the French call, ‘difficult years.’… Read more

($73, Henriot Inc.): This, Bouchard’s flagship wine from Beaune, rarely disappoints and often dazzles. The 2002 dazzles. Long and expansive, it is remarkably ‘big’ for a wine from Beaune, but has not lost any of its usual elegance or silkiness. 93 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2006… Read more

($53, Chemin des Vins/Patrick LeSec): The Ostrea vineyard, not a premier cru, is located on the north-Brochon-side of Gevrey and takes its name from the oyster shells found in the soil. Ripe and supple-but not hot as was all too frequently the case with 2003 Burgundies-Trapet’s village Gevrey-Chambertin has lovely balance and is delicious to drink now.… Read more

($40, Chemin des Vins/Patrick LeSec): Perhaps the best wine from Fixin I’ve ever had, the 2004 from Domaine St. Martin has layers of flavors and length. Not marred by the hardness sometimes found in wines from this village, its pure fruit flavors are complemented by an engaging earthiness.… Read more

($17, Kobrand): One of Burgundy’s greatest producers, Maison Louis Jadot has fashioned a beautiful introduction to red Burgundy with this wine. Uncharacteristic for the French, who typically shun grape names, Jadot plasters “Pinot Noir” in large type across the label just in case you forgot that all red Burgundy comes from that grape.… Read more

($19, Frederick Wildman): Potel owns just one small, four-acre, vineyard called Maison Dieu between the towns of Beaune and Pommard, on the “wrong side of the tracks.” The wine doesn’t even qualify for a town name, but must be sold under Burgundy’s least prestigious appellation, Bourgogne.… Read more

($200, Dreyfus Ashby): A domaine bottling, this Bonnes Mares is staggeringly good, plush and balanced, with a seemingly endless finish. 96 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more

($125, Kobrand): Always my favorite, Jadot’s Bonnes Mares, a domaine wine, is suave, long, layered, and luxurious. The tannins and structure are there, but unobtrusive, and bode well for development. 97 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more

($175, Dreyfus Ashby): Sometimes wines from Grand Cru vineyards are disappointing. Not this domaine bottling. It has a magical combination of power and elegance and the extra umph that should characterize a Grand Cru. 95 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more

($55, Kobrand): From purchased grapes, Jacques Lardière, Jadot’s exceptionally talented winemaker, has produced a very good, earthy, surprisingly big wine from a lesser known premier cru. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more

($25, Dreyfus Ashby): The Côte de Beaune appellation, less well known in the US than Côte de Beaune Villages, ranks between Beaune and the Beaune 1er Cru in stature, acording to Véronique Drouhin. Primarily made from wines from the young vines of Drouhin’s flagship property, Beaune Clos des Mouches, it has forward, pure ripe fruit flavors, little tannin, and good acid.… Read more

($25, Dreyfus Ashby): Wines from Chorey les Beaune, the only village in the Côte d’Or without a premier cru vineyard, offer great value when they are crafted by a talented producer like Drouhin. With pure fresh red fruit flavors, this one is uncomplicated and charming now.… Read more

($100, Kobrand): Also from purchased grapes, this Charmes Chambertin attests to the validity of the appellation contrôllée system. It has more of everything–complexity, length, and power–than the Petite Chapelle. 94 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more

($48, Louis Latour, Inc.): Here is a great village wine, fleshy and plump, with unexpected length. Delicious now. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more

($36, Frederick Wildman): The pure cherry-like fruit is packaged here in Potel’s signature silky suaveness. Tightly wound at this stage, I expect it will blossom beautifully over the next five years. I also put this one in my cellar. 90 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more

($40, Clicquot, Inc.): This wine, which has been sold widely in France, made its first US appearance in 2002. A blend made exclusively from up to 16 of Bouchard’s 1er Cru vineyards in Beaune which are not bottled separately, such as Beaune Marconnets or Beaune Grèves, it’s a great buy.… Read more

($36, Kobrand): This more muscular wine, also from a family owned vineyard on the border with Pommard, has great color and concentration without being overdone. Exceptionally long, it’s even bigger, but not necessarily better, than the Theurons. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more

($36, Kobrand): A bottling from a vineyard owned by the heirs of the Jadot family–Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot–this is a concentrated wine, rather big for a Beaune, with great texture and length. 92 Michael Apstein Jul 22, 2005… Read more

($46, Louis Latour, Inc.): Latour owns about a third–over 7 acres–in this prized vineyard from which he makes consistently excellent wine. The 2002 is glorious, concentrated and well structured. I would drink his Volnay En Chevrets while waiting for this one to evolve.… Read more

($48, Kobrand): Jadot’s flagship Beaune from a portion of the Vignes Franches vineyard, the Clos des Ursules is always a winner. The 2002 is no exception. With more structure than their other Beaune 1er Cru, it should turn out very well.… Read more