Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (Burgundy, France) Lavaux St. Jacques 2007

($165, Martine’s Wines, Inc.):  This pretty wine shows the grace and beauty of some 2007 red Burgundies.  Floral and delicate, it’s long and balanced.  But don’t for a minute think that delicate means light.  No, this is classic Burgundy: flavor–savory leafy notes–without weight.  And very appealing now.  The only drawback–not unique to this wine, but to many Burgundies in general–is the price. 92 Michael Apstein Apr 20, 2010