All posts by admin

Fonseca, Porto (Portugal) 2011

($80, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): At a Kobrand-sponsored tasting of 2011 vintage Ports, tasters would be asking one another which they preferred, Taylor’s or Fonseca’s. What’s amazing to me is how different and distinctive these two Ports are, despite being owned by the same family run company (The Fladgate Partnership, where David Guimaraens is wine director for both houses).… Read more

Château des Labourons, Fleurie (Burgundy, France) 2011

($18, Louis Latour USA): Fleurie, one of the ten named villages or crus of Beaujolais, is allowed to put its name on the label, with or without reference to Beaujolais.  The Château des Labourons has opted to omit Beaujolais from the label because, as Bernard Retornaz, the President of Louis Latour Inc in charge of North American Market, said, “This is real wine, not some grapey swill that’s become associated with Beaujolais.” … Read more

The Illusion of Knowledge

Everyone buying and selling wine–wineries, wholesalers, retailers and consumers–does it.  We wine writers also fall into the trap.  We carefully note the blend of grapes in a particular wine and what oak treatment the winemaker has chosen, as though that gives us valuable information about the wine. … Read more

La Bastide Blanche, Bandol (Provence, France) Rosé 2012

($21, Weygandt Metzler): Bandol, a small, but important, appellation in Provence on the Mediterranean just east of Marseille, produces mostly robust red wines primarily from Mourvèdre.  The appellation allows production of Rosé as well.  This one, a blend of Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Grenache, combines the refreshing aspect of rosé with real substance that comes from Mourvèdre. … Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Cold Creek Vineyard 2010

($30): More tannic and muscular than Chateau Ste. Michelle’s very good Canoe Ridge Estate Cabernet, their Cold Creek Vineyard bottling is mineraly and dense. It is far less approachable at this stage than their Canoe Ridge Estate, which makes it a good candidate for a couple of more years in the bottle before pulling the cork.… Read more

Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling Cold Creek Vineyard 2012

($18): Although Chateau Ste. Michelle does a consistently fine job with its entire range of varietal wines, they are especially talented when it comes to Riesling. This one is pure and precise. Its subtle sweetness is underpinned by riveting acidity, making it a superb choice either as a stand-alone aperitif or to accompany full flavored Asian cuisine.… Read more

Port: It’s Not Just for Winter any More

Many years ago, Carmine Martignetti, a friend of mine and head of Carolina Wines, one of New England’s best distributors, remarked to me after a chilly night that marked the beginning of Fall, that the “Port season had arrived.” He of course was referring to the cold months when Port, the uniquely sweet and warming wine made exclusively in Portugal’s Douro Valley, was consumed.… Read more

Château de Pennautier, Cabardès (Languedoc, France) 2011

($13, Baron Francois): Cabardès, a small appellation in the Languedoc, sits where Atlantic and Mediterranean climatic influences meet.  It’s one of the few areas in France where regulations permit grapes from both regions.  Reflecting the tradition of the area, the Château de Pennautier, owned by Comte Nicolas de Longeril, one of the Languedoc’s most reliable names, is composed of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Grenache and Syrah. … Read more

Domaine Paul Mas, Limoux Blanc (Languedoc, France) Chardonnay “Arrogant Frog” 2011

($9, Palm Bay International): Despite the name, I must recommend this Chardonnay because it delivers more than the price suggests. Most Chardonnays at this price are clumsy and slightly sweet. Paul Mas, one of the region’s notable négociants, has made one that’s clean and fresh, with a delicate creaminess atop its tart apple-like fruitiness.… Read more

CVNE, Rioja (Spain) Rosado 2011

($13, Europvin): Although 95% of Rioja’s production is red, the region makes some attractive whites and rosés.  And this rosé is one of them.  CVNE, one of the region’s top producers, used Tempranillo entirely for this crisp, lively wine.  Bright cherry-like fruit notes are framed by refreshing acidity. … Read more