($12, Gabriella Wines): In Portugal, Albariño, Spain’s popular aromatic white grape, is Alvarinho.  It’s a little odd to see the grape in the southern part of Portugal — the do Tejo appellation is the area bordering the Tejo, a.k.a. Tagus River not far from Lisbon — because it’s best known as the grape for the mouth-tingling Vinho Verde from Portugal’s north.  But Fiuza has made one with all the pizzazz you’d expect from a cooler climate.  Their 2014 is clean and bright with a touch of a pleasing citrus bite.  This fresh and lively white is a good choice for steamed clams or even a heartier seafood stew.  What a bargain!
88 Michael Apstein Aug 18, 2015