Stéphane Aviron, Morgon (Burgundy, France) Côte de Py 2016

($25, Frederick Wildman And Sons Ltd):  Morgon, along with Moulin-à-Vent, are the two cru that produce the sturdiest wines that often need several years of bottle age to show their true beauty.  The Côte de Py is an area within Morgon made of black volcanic soil that imparts an austere mineral-like quality to the wines.  Aviron’s, while displaying this lovely deep minerality, has a beguiling and unexpected suaveness that makes it a delight to drink now.  You can safely buy this one by the case, because judging from past vintages of his Morgon Côte de Py, it will develop beautifully with bottle age.
92 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2018